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America's 10 Best Rock Climbs
Stephen Regenold 2007-09-10 00:00:00.0
The Nose, Yosemite National Park, Calif.
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The Nose, Yosemite National Park, Calif.

Rocketing 3,000 feet into the sky, The Nose on Yosemite's El Capitan formation provides continuous quality climbing for two to three days straight, with most teams hauling food, water and gear to camp out thousands of feet above the ground. Historically, it is among the most renowned climbs in the country: Its first ascent, in 1958, took 47 days. Great rock, endless crack systems, and relentless, head-swirling exposure put this route atop most every climbers' life list of lines to achieve.


The Naked Edge, Eldorado Canyon, Colo.
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The Naked Edge, Eldorado Canyon, Colo.

Of the 500 rock climbs at Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Naked Edge is the most famous, with expert-level climbing on cracks, low-angle slabs, an exposed arête, and a tough overhanging corner near the top. The climb reaches several hundred feet high, snaking on a buttress of red and golden sandstone. "It's a true rollercoaster climb with a stunning top out," said pro climber Sonnie Trotter.


Casual Route, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colo.
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Casual Route, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colo.

Found high on a cliff near the summit of 14,259-foot Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, the Casual Route is the best alpine rock climb in the country, according to pro climber Will Gadd. "Remote," "beautiful," and "impossible-looking" are all adjectives Gadd employs to describe the 1,000-foot-long rock route.


Royal Arches, Yosemite National Park, Calif.
© Sean O.S. Barley/Shutterstock

Royal Arches, Yosemite National Park, Calif.

This moderate climb—rated 5.7—has about 15 pitches (rope-lengths) of high-quality climbing on clean, compact granite (Royal Arches is pictured at left; Half Dome is on the right). It reaches 1,500 feet above the valley floor, though its hold-ridden faces and intermediate-level cracks make the route approachable even for newbies. "The terrain is low angle and the rock quality sound," said pro climber Timmy O'Neill. "It is a cardiovascular workout as much as an arm and leg burner, like vertical calisthenics."


East Face of Monkey Face, Smith Rock, Ore.
© Ben Parmeter

East Face of Monkey Face, Smith Rock, Ore.

Otherworldly rock formations flank Smith Rock State Park, including the Monkey Face, a 400-foot-tall spire that includes several world-famous routes. Pro climber Sonnie Trotter recommends the East Face route, an extreme 5.13d R—read: expert-level and dangerous—that features a desperate overhanging crack. "The line is flawless," Trotter said. "It's also cool because it continues to get steeper and steeper as you climb."


Skyline, City of Rocks, Idaho
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Skyline, City of Rocks, Idaho

Solid granite stone and a fun crack to a spire summit make Skyline one of Michael Kennedy's favorite routes in the country. Rated 5.8, the climb is approachable to intermediates, but its "position and beauty and quality of the climbing" make it a classic, according to Kennedy.


Amazon Woman, Quartz Mountain, Okla.
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Amazon Woman, Quartz Mountain, Okla.

Rock climbing in Oklahoma? Darn tootin'! Rising a sheer 200 feet from the wheat fields surrounding its base, Amazon Woman on the Quartz Mountain formation features sustained high-intermediate level (5.10a) climbing and a small overhang that is "smooth as glass," according to Duane Raleigh, editor and publisher of Rock & Ice magazine. "When you feel the holds, they don't seem usable, but as soon as you weight your feet, they stick, amazingly enough," he said.


East Face of Keeler Needle, Calif.
© iStock

East Face of Keeler Needle, Calif.

Guarding the highest mountain summit in the continental United States—the 14,505-foot Mt. Whitney—the stark Keeler Needle formation is a "phenomenal, Yosemite-quality big wall," according to Peter Metcalf, CEO and co-founder of the climbing gear company Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. "It's big and requires competent climbers to move to get this done in a day," he said. "We topped out at last light and stumbled our way to the summit of Whitney for a very cold shivering bivy that night."


East Face Direct Route, First Flatiron, Colo.
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East Face Direct Route, First Flatiron, Colo.

The Flatirons—the archetypal conglomerate sandstone cliffs that tower over Boulder, Colo.—feature dozens of renowned routes, including the East Face Direct Route. Heading up for nearly 1,000 feet, but rated a moderate 5.6 on the difficulty scale, the East Face Direct Route follows a low-angle line perfect for beginner and intermediate climbers wanting their first taste of multi-pitch, Rocky Mountain High.


Becky Route/Fine Line, Elephant's Perch, Idaho
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Becky Route/Fine Line, Elephant's Perch, Idaho

High in Idaho's Sawtooth National Forest, on the Elephant's Perch cliff, the Becky Route/Fine Line climb is a route prized by serious rock climbers, according to Peter Metcalf. "It's over 1,000 vertical feet tall, and it goes right up the center and tallest part of the face," he said. The line, rated an expert's-level 5.11, requires an all-day effort by most teams, including eight pitches (rope-lengths) of serious climbing in a remote wilderness setting.