6640 Washington StreetYountville, California707.944.2380

After being on hold for 45 minutes: "All reservations for the next two months are taken. I suggest that you call at 10 AM tomorrow for [a date that would be two months to the day]." Thomas Keller’s Napa Valley temple of gastronomy, which in a former life was indeed a laundry specializing in French service, routinely books up two months in advance for his perfectionist $240 nine course tasting menus. There are rare cancellations, however, and area hotels often get first crack at them to pass on to their guests.

For more information: The French Laundry

10 Columbus Circle (at 60th Street)4th FloorNew York, NY212.823.9335

“You’re in luck. We just had a cancellation for tomorrow night.” Indeed, an amazing stroke of luck…but if I didn’t take that one? “Call back on the 15th for two months later.” The French Laundry’s New York sibling has only 15 tables…but it also has a waiting list and, clearly, cancellations occasionally happen.

For more information: Per Se

1723 North Halsted Chicago Illinois 312-867-0110

There are two seatings, 5:30-6 and 8:45, but flipping through the book, the reservationist finds a surprisingly available table. “I can give you one at 7:30 six weeks from today! And one at 8:45 a week later.” Grant Achatz’s jazz-like fusions of flavors (monkfish with banana, onion and lime, caramel with meyer lemon and cinnamon) were an instant hit with adventurous diners, who’ve packed his Lincoln Park restaurant since it opened in 2005; he also won the James Beard Foundation award this year as Best Chef in the Great Lakes region, adding to the demand for seats.

For more information: Alinea

Café Atlántico, second floor, 405 8th Street NW.Washington D.C.(202) 393-0812

“Call tomorrow morning at 9 for 30 days from that date. But good luck because it’s craziness.” Esteemed chef Jose Andres’ six seat bar on the second floor of his Café Atlantico features a nightly changing explosion of artistic creations served in 30-35 bite sized portions. Your next door neighbor might be another famous chef checking out Andres’ innovations, but he/she would have had to be a very good friend of the chef’s to get in without waiting the a month.

For more information: minibar

110 Waverly PlaceNew York, NY212.777.0303

After several hours of constant busy signals, a 10 minute wait on hold and then "either 5:45 or 10 PM [a date 28 days from now], perhaps more flexibility if you call at 10 AM tomorrow for 30 days out.” You would think that a restaurant that’s been open for nine years would have cooled by now, but superstar chef Mario Batali’s vivid, creative Italian is as tough a table today as when it opened. There are also walk-in tables but they’re mobbed too, unless you’re first in the door at 5 P.M.

For more information: Babbo

16 Bank StreetNew York, NY

Since there’s no phone line for the public at this glamorized tavern, but I live in the neighborhood, I walked in to ask for a reservation. Perhaps because it’s now summertime and many of its regulars are out of the city, I got a surprising result. “We’re not really open (the restaurant is officially in permanent preview) but I could put you in at 9:45 Wednesday (it was Monday). We’ll only take reservations two days in advance.” Granted, it was a late hour and would not be for a prime banquette near co-owner Graydon Carter and his celebrity friends, but at least it was an invitation. That good luck will probably not last through the fall.

9500 Wilshire Blvd.,Beverly Hills, CA310-276-8500

The first reservationist was very accommodating and said she could put me in a week later at 7:30 on a Monday. It was a different picture when I called back an hour later and got another person. “We seat only at 6:30 or 9 and there’s nothing for the next month. When people stop coming, then we can probably help you.” Schizophrenic policy aside, Wolfgang Puck’s sleek Beverly Hills steakhouse, with interiors by Richard Meier, and elite menu items such as filet mignon carpaccio with Perigord black truffles and a half pound pure Japanese Wagyu ribeye steak (for $160), is obviously popular. But there is a waitlist, and area concierges such as Peninsula Beverly Hills chef concierge James Little sometimes have a special edge when the 30 day rule closes it out to the general public.

For more information: Cut

455 E. 114th St.New York, NY212-722-6709

The recording on the answering machine says “Our 2007 restaurant book is filled, we’re not accepting any reservations and we don’t respond to any messages.” In other words, go away. Unless you’re one of the regulars who own the 11 tables, the guest of one or the former President of the United States (and even Bill Clinton had to borrow a table instead of getting a reservation on his own) chances are that you’re not getting into this Southern Italian social club. But miracles have been known to happen. One tip might be to go to the bar on the night of a blizzard, befriend Nick the bartender and hope they’ll let you sit down if a table’s owner doesn’t show up. There’s also a branch now in Las Vegas, designed to recreate the original. But, obviously, it’s not the same.

90 Bedford StreetNew York, NY 212-741-4695

The nicest reservationist. “The closest we would have is 7 o ’clock 30 days from now,” she said then apologized for not being able to get me in at 8, my chosen time.” “We only seat 28 people at a time and 28 people live upstairs,” says co-owner Gabriel Stulman, explaining the popularity of this intimate Greenwich Village restaurant. He modestly doesn’t mention the stellar reviews. Because of its small size, the restaurant’s tables book up 30 days in advance, but three are kept each night for walk-ins. So there’s hope.

For more information: The Little Owl

1312 Spruce St.Philadelphia, PA215-732-3478

“We don’t do 8 o’ clock seatings but we can do 8:30 and if you can come on a Monday, we can do three weeks from now. Saturday will be two months. “ When Mario Batali, the chef-owner of an Italian restaurant that is itself impossible to get into (see Babbo, above) calls a restaurant the best Italian restaurant on the East Coast, would-be diners take it seriously. And with only 11 tables able to experience Marc Vetri’s classic, gutsy Italian creations, there’s a long wait to get in.

For more information: Vetri