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Hail one of the cute antique convertible taxis buzzing around the old city, and the driver -- a lovely young woman with a ponytail that whips in the wind, if you're lucky -- will zoom along the shorefront at 50 miles an hour.
On your left, Old Havana continues to decay elegantly. On your right, young Habaneros hang out on the seawall seeing and being seen. Faster than you can say "Guantanamera," you're pulling into the elegant Hotel Nacional with a screech of tires and a flourish. All for about $5 -- if you're a good negotiator. (Of course, American citizens shouldn't forget that the Cuban experience technically requires the blessing of the U.S. government.)


