A monumental construction, graced inside by 110 ancient granite columns which support its Latin Cross structure, the Duomo was begun by King Carlo I d'Angió in the 13th century and finished by his successor Roberto d'Angió in 1313. The grandiose interior of the cathedral is lavishly decorated. Among the most precious artwork is the painting of the Assunta by Perugino, located on the right side of the transept. Several chapels open from both naves and the transept; the most splendid is the Gothic Cappella Capece Minutolo, with its beautiful 13th-century frescoes and mosaic floor. To the right of the presbytery is another Gothic chapel of great beauty, the Cappella Tocco. You'll also want to descend downstairs to access the Succorpo or Cappella Carafa, one of the most elegant Renaissance architectural structures ever created, in the style of Bramante. From the right nave, the third chapel to the right is the monumental Cappella di San Gennaro, dedicated to the patron saint of Naples. Richly decorated with precious marbles, gold leaf, frescoes, and artworks, it is considered by art historians as the highest achievement of Neapolitan baroque. The fresco cycle around the dome, illustrating the life of San Gennaro, is by Domenichino, while the oil painting over copper, depicting San Genarro, is by Jusepe de Ribera -- the rich frame of gilded bronze and lapis lazuli is by Onofrio D'Alessio. The famous reliquaries containing the skull and the blood of San Gennaro -- which is said to miraculously liquefy each September 19 (Feast Day of San Gennaro) as well as the first Sunday in May and December 16 -- are inside a safe over the main altar; they are exposed to the public only on the dates of the miraculous event: for 1 week in May, 1 in September, and on the 16th of December. From the left nave, the third chapel entrance to the left gives access to Santa Restituta, the oldest basilica in Naples and the city's Duomo until the new one was finished in the 14th century. Built in the 4th century by the Emperor Constantine, it is a very atmospheric church in spite of the many changes it underwent -- its facade and atrium were demolished when it was annexed to the Duomo, while its apse was redecorated in baroque style in the 17th century; also, to strengthen its structure, the two outermost of its original five naves were closed into chapels. We love the sixth chapel on the left, with its luminous 14th-century mosaic by Lello da Orvieto and two beautiful 13th-century reliefs. Also, make sure not to miss the Baptistery of San Giovanni in Fonte, which you can access from an entrance at the end of the right nave. Founded in the 4th century, it is the world's oldest Western baptistery. Its cupola is decorated with beautiful mosaics from the 5th century (unfortunately, some of them are damaged). From the end of the left nave you can access the archaeological excavations under the Duomo, which date back to Greek times.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Amalfi Coast, 2nd Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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