Auckland's imposing museum building stands in the Auckland Domain on the rim of an ancient volcano surrounded by parks and gardens. Major refurbishment of the museum is complete and it now has two entrances -- the original harbor entrance has the stunning views, the new rear dome entrance in The Atrium shows off contemporary New Zealand architecture. Also new is Volcanoes, a gallery that introduces you to Auckland's turbulent natural history. It's the only city in the world built on a volcano field and the interactive movie room, simulating the birth of a new volcano, will set you to thinking we're slightly crazy for living here at all. The museum has the largest collection of Maori and Polynesian artifacts in the world, and for this reason alone is worth a visit. The extensive Maori Treasures Gallery is a must-see. Key attractions in this area are the impressive 25m (80-ft.) war canoe chiseled from one enormous totara trunk and covered with intricate carvings. That same artistry is reflected in the 26m (85-ft.) meetinghouse, with its carved and painted walls and rafters. Also on display are magnificent greenstone weapons, tools, and feather cloaks. Three times a day -- at 11am, noon, and 1:30pm -- concerts by the Manaia Maori Performance Group bring the culture to life. The museum is easy to negotiate. Just remember the first floor is about people, the second is about the land, and the third is our war memorial. Pacific Pathways is a moody area housing a world-renowned collection of Pacific artifacts; New Zealand at War: Scars on the Heart tells an emotional story of New Zealand in conflict, from the Land Wars of the 1840s to its present-day peacekeeping operations. The first-floor Natural History Galleries showcase everything from dinosaur skeletons to live seaside rock pools. It's a fascinating area well supported by the superb Discovery Centre. My favorite gallery is the thought-provoking Wild Child, which focuses on the experiences that shaped a colonial childhood, although the new Encounter gallery is a close second. It's the first-ever gallery developed to display New Zealand applied arts and design. This first-rate museum experience gives a marvelous introduction to New Zealand history and culture. To get the most from it, allow 2 to 3 hours minimum. An on-site cafe is open during museum hours. There is also a second shop and a better cafe in The Atrium. And don't forget to ask about the free Family Trails tours and the Night at Auckland Museum -- a school holiday treat that the kids will love. Booking ahead is essential or check the website for holiday activity timetables. Also new is a magnificent sculpture walk through the Domain. The museum supplies a map and has the maquettes on display.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's New Zealand, 5th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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