This fish market is a colorful cluster of much more than just fishmongers. Having just undergone a period of restoration (which in my opinion whitewashed some of the charm out), it also contains dükkan (small grocers), souvenir sellers, restaurants, tempting tantuni joints (fast-food sellers of fried spiced beef), and other must-try street food vendors. I'm a bit anxious that eventually it will homogenize into just another outdoor shopping mall, but let's just cross our fingers and not get ahead of ourselves. Running perpendicular to Sahne Tiyatro Sokagi are three very picturesque alleys as well as an unobtrusive Armenian Church. The Üc Horon Ermeni Kilisesi (also called the Surp Yerrortuyan, both meaning Holy Trinity; Balikpazari 24Ab/6r) is a working church and the largest Armenian Church in Istanbul. It dates to 1838. To the right of Sahne Tiyatro Sokagi is Nevisade Street, a narrow cobbled mews overflowing with traditional meyhanes. One can barely squeeze by on a summer's eve, which makes it half the fun. Try to nab a seat on the upper balconies (or roof terraces) if you can; these are often closed from October through April. From Sahne Tiyatro Sokagi branch off the quieter Duduodalar Street and the Avrupa Pasaj. The Avrupa, or European Passage, used to be reveted in mirrors designed to enhance the light emitted by the then-gas lamps, and thus was formerly called the Aynali Pasaji or Mirrored Arcade. Here is a pleasing mixture of high-end antiques sellers, Anatolian textile boutiques, and down-market souvenir shops.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Istanbul, 1st Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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