Through video displays, slides, and even holograms, this museum presents Kyoto's 1,200-year history from prehistoric relics to contemporary arts and crafts. I particularly like the various architectural models depicting a local market, merchants' homes, and a wholesale store, but best of all is the vermilion-colored Heian Shrine model with its holographic display of construction workers. The third floor features changing exhibitions of Kyoto arts and crafts as well as a Japanese-style room and garden. Occupying a 1906 bank with its original main hall (complete with teller cages), the annex houses special exhibits and events. Unfortunately, explanations are in Japanese only, but the museum does offer free English-language guides every day from 10am to 5pm; personal tours last between 30 and 60 minutes depending on your interest (because guides are volunteers, it's a good idea to make a reservation for one). A special feature of the museum is its film library, which houses hundreds of Japanese classics from silent movies to films made up to 20 years ago (the Japanese movie industry was based in Kyoto for decades). Movies are shown twice a day Thursday through Sunday (at 1:30 and 5pm at last check, but you'd be wise to confirm the time). Be sure, also, to browse the Roji Temple Mercantile Street, a re-created merchant's quarters with shops selling crafts and souvenirs and restaurants serving typical Kyoto dishes.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Japan, 9th Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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