Nestled in an avenue close to the River Manzanares and just beyond the Príncipe Pío Station are two beautiful domed hermitages, built between 1792 and 1798. The one on the right contains Goya's tomb and one of his most unusual masterpieces -- an elaborately beautiful fresco depicting the miracles of St. Anthony on the dome and cupola. This has been called Goya's Sistine Chapel. Already deaf when he began the painting, Goya labored dawn to dusk for 16 weeks, painting with sponges rather than brushes. By depicting common street life -- stonemasons, prostitutes, and beggars -- Goya raised the ire of the nobility who held judgment until the patron, Carlos IV, viewed it. When the monarch approved, the formerly outrageous painting was deemed acceptable. Discreetly placed mirrors will help you see the ceiling better.

Copyright: Excerpted from Frommer's Madrid, 3rd Edition, (c) 2008, Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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