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The Draw
• Iconic landmarks steeped in history and watched over by Mao
• Seeing the heart of the Communist Party (it's still beating)
• Witnessing the almost daily revelations of capitalist China
The Scene
Tiananmen Square. The Great Hall of the People. The Forbidden City. The Chinese government hasn't announced any plans to raze these symbols of history and communism, but the rest of the city appears to be up for debate. In preparation to host the 2008 Olympic Games, the city cleared out much of its Stalinist architecture and replaced it with gleaming, foreign-designed monoliths. And while Beijing leaps forward on the restaurant, bar and fashion scenes, its pace still doesn't approach that of sister city Shanghai. For now, the ancient flavor still lingers among the ancient hutongs and in the Forbidden City (just pretend you don't see the Starbucks). And though communism still casts its shadow, even party leaders can't deny the fast-approaching dawn of capitalism in their capital city.
To Be Seen
• Dong Cheng. Yes, this is tourist central, but with Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City and major temples here, along with main shopping arteries like Wangfujing and Dong Dan, it's still a gorgeous must-see.
• Chaoyang. Beijing's financial clout is centered in this area, which boasts the proudly renamed Central Business District and the prominently displayed China World Trade Center.
• Hou Hai Lake. Around this old imperial body of water, the number of trendy, neon-marked bars and clubs is growing as fast as China's economy.
• Haidian. The biggest reason to come to northwest Beijing is to see the Summer Palace, but that alone is enough -- its acres of gardens and temples are gorgeous.
For The VIP
• Tea for two … on the Wall. The snaking Great Wall of China, which took 14 centuries to build, remains mesmerizing, but crushing crowds can make for a less than memorable experience. Instead, sightsee with the Peninsula Palace Beijing, which will arrange a two-person tea party atop the Wall that's fit for an emperor (and his companion of choice).
• Go clubbing. Private clubbing, that is. Reserve your own pavilion dining suite at the exclusive China Club, sample delectable Sichuan cuisine and experience an exotic night to remember. The club is housed in a well-preserved palace that was built for a prince in the 16th century and attracts many of China's elite politicians and businessmen.
• Now or never. Have your concierge hire a private guide to give you a tour by chauffeured car and rickshaw of Beijing's centuries-old hutongs (narrow alleyways) before they disappear. There are only 25 of 3,000 left; most have been razed in the name of rapid steamroller development for the Olympics.
Overrated
Qianjude Duck Restaurant. Sure, Beijing's most famous restaurant has been around since 1864, but longevity doesn't always equal success.
Underrated
Panjiayuan Market. Few foreigners make it to this collection of odd assortments, but it's become a hot spot for the Chinese cognoscenti. Just be warned: Finding Peking Opera masks or worthwhile hand-painted treasures will take some digging.
Don't Miss
Family Li's Dishes Restaurant. The toughest reservation in Beijing isn't some über-mod hot spot but this traditional courtyard house. The restaurant used to play host to surviving relatives of the last Qing ruler, and the unique Qing imperial cuisine is still appealingly savory.
When To Go
With a freezing winter and windy spring, Beijing is optimal in summer and, for the crowd-averse, autumn. Other tourist-packed times include Chinese New Year and two week-long holidays around the beginning of May and October.
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