City Layout
Cathedral Square (also known as the Square) is the center point, around which the main roads are laid out in a grid system, surrounded by four main avenues -- Bealey, Moorehouse, Deans, and Fitzgerald. The winding Avon River meanders 24km (15 miles) from the west of Christchurch, through the city and out to sea. The Port Hills, south of the city, are an ever-present landmark from which you can always get your bearings. Colombo Street is the main street running north-south to the Port Hills.
An Easy Introduction -- If you're in town for a few days and want to get a feel for the Inner City, head for the Square and look for the red-and-black Personal Guiding Service kiosk. Trained guides -- they're in red and black, too -- offer daily 2-hour walking tours at 10am and 1pm from October through April, and at 1pm from May through September. Tours also depart 15 minutes earlier from outside the nearby visitor center. For more information, call tel. 03/379-9629.
The Neighborhoods in Brief
Fendalton -- This is the heart of Christchurch conservatism and money -- the southern equivalent of Auckland's Remuera. You'll find wonderful old homes and beautiful tree-lined streets, but its retail center is small, unimaginative, and easily bypassed altogether in favor of Merivale shopping. There are few accommodations in this area.
Merivale -- Those among the moneyed set who consider themselves a little more contemporary throng to Merivale to shop and dine. Located between Papanui and Inner City, it is an attractive suburb, close to the heart of things, and it offers a good number of B&Bs along with "Motel Mile," which stretches south along Papanui Road from Merivale Mall to Bealey Avenue. Always safe, in all senses of the word, it is a pleasant place to be, and you can walk here from the heart of the city in about 30 minutes.
St. Albans -- This older suburb lies adjacent to Merivale to the east -- some would call it the poor man's Merivale, but now that most of the old villas have been significantly renovated, real-estate prices are a little out of the "poor" league. There is no real retail heart here and just a few lodgings -- predominantly at the Bealey Avenue end of the suburb, where there is another good selection of motels.
Inner City -- I recommend finding accommodations in the Inner City area, which generally consists of the area within the four main avenues: Deans, Bealey, Moorehouse, and Fitzgerald. Most of the major hotels are close to Cathedral Square (known as the Square) and the shopping on Colombo Street, City Mall (the pedestrian-only zone of Cashel St.), and Manchester and High streets. The main restaurant/bar zone is situated on Oxford Terrace, which borders the Avon River and connects with the lower end of City Mall. Hagley Park is a short walk.
Hagley Park/Botanic Gardens -- Theoretically still Inner City, this compact area just west of the central business district is easily defined by its proximity to Hagley Park and the Botanic Gardens. It is generally the area west of Montreal Street, along Park Avenue, and through to Deans Avenue on the west side of the park. You'll find excellent accommodations and some of the major attractions, such as the Canterbury Museum, the Arts Centre, and the new Art Gallery. It's a 5- to 10-minute walk along Worcester Boulevard (serviced by the tram) to the Square and the visitor center.
Riccarton/Ilam -- Riccarton is on the western side of Hagley Park, and apart from its huge shopping mall, a proliferation of cheap Asian restaurants, and a Sunday market, it has little for me to recommend. The area between Riccarton and Fendalton is known as Ilam, and this is where you'll find Canterbury University tucked into a beautiful leafy enclave.
Sumner -- Once a holiday spot for Christchurch residents, Sumner has long since become a suburb of the city itself. It's a delightful place about 15 to 30 minutes from the city depending on traffic. The neighborhood is characterized by steep hillsides dotted with prime real estate with stunning views of the city and coast, as well as by quaint holiday homes that still sit near the beach. It's easily accessed by bus, has a cute village feel, and offers a thriving social life with at least 20 cafes and restaurants. In summer, the young surfing crowd gathers on the Esplanade, and there's generally volleyball and beach fun aplenty.
Lyttelton -- This is a quaint port village over the Port Hills from Christchurch, a 20- to 30-minute drive away. You'll either love it or hate it; Lyttelton seldom gets reactions in between. Quaint, to some, turns out to be ugly and gray to others. It has few lodgings and is considerably less convenient for Christchurch sightseeing. However, a visit here makes for a nice drive. Head out to Sumner and go up over the Port Hills and down into Lyttelton. You can then return to the Central City via the tunnel. (Of course, you can use the tunnel both ways for a quicker trip.)