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THE DRAW
• A rockin' metropolis set against Rocky Mountain tableaux
• Excellent public transportation, and 100 miles of pedestrian and bike paths
• Comfortable climate, and the thinnest residents of any U.S. city
THE SCENE
Sixty years ago, Jack Kerouac roamed the rail yards and seedy bars of downtown Denver. Today the Beat icon's stomping grounds are home to the "Jack Kerouac Lofts," with European-style cabinetry and Nevamar kitchen countertops. It's an urban transformation that might have made the postwar hipster flee to a nearby mountaintop, but the Mile High City hasn't lost its soul. This mountain metropolis still has the gritty brick-and-steel flavor of its frontier and industrial-town roots, but the city's urban makeover has given it an extra cosmopolitan flair and sophistication. Add to this the expansive natural surroundings, and it's easy to understand why Denver continues to lure residents and visitors with the magnetism of a modern-day gold rush.
TO BE SEEN
• "LoDo," or Lower Downtown, is the business and historic district, and at the heart of Denver's urban renaissance. Gone are the dilapidated warehouses: These former hobo digs are now the setting for 30 art galleries, more than 90 restaurants and a trendy nighttime scene. The Colorado Rockies' home, Coors Field, built in the 1990s with an old-time ballpark feel, captures the LoDo's vintage-modern vibe.
• Cherry Creek. The eponymous mall is the center of this upscale neighborhood, which is jampacked with galleries, boutiques and cafes. A 22-mile biking/running/walking path will help you work off your Mochachino.
• Denver Performing Arts Complex. The largest arts complex in the world, this space conveniently offers a one-stop culture shop, with a theater, symphony concert hall, opera house and much more.
FOR THE VIP
• Customize your visit to a Colorado wilderness area with a guide from the privately run National Park Society. A knowledgeable local naturalist will make sure you don't step over any details about the area's rich wildlife and geology.
• Reserve the "Denchu," the secret room behind the shoji screens at the highly lauded Sushi Den on South Pearl Street. Master Chef Toshi Kizaki will prepare his personal selection of fish, flown in daily from Japan.
• Several private reserves, including the Auer Bird Valley, just 35 miles out of town, offer private, guided hunts for game birds such as pheasant and partridge.
OVERRATED
Ski Train. A+ for concept; B- for execution. This railroad shuttle takes you from downtown to the slopes, traversing magnificent Rockies scenery, but it can be very slow going, and leaves and returns only once a day, stopping at a single resort.
UNDERRATED
The Boulder Public Library. Take a day trip to this hip and increasingly upscale college town northwest of Denver, and enjoy an afternoon in a clean and spacious public gem. An indoor bridge spans the Boulder Creek, so fly fisherman may cast beneath you as you leaf through The Old Man and the Sea.
DON'T MISS
The Oxford Hotel. Guests rave about this silver rush-era landmark. If you don't stay the night, at least try to slip in to the grandly appointed lobby for a complimentary evening sherry.
WHEN TO GO
Weather is pleasant year round, with plenty of sunshine, even in winter. Fall is ideal for enjoying the mountain terrain in full-color splendor.
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