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THE DRAW • The Blue Ridge Mountains, with scenic drives, hiking trails and a stellar backdrop • Lavish Biltmore Estate, a tribute to how much George Vanderbilt loved this area • America's second oldest guild of arts and crafts artists; today their pieces are auctioned for top dollar
THE SCENE
Asheville first blossomed at the turn of the century, when the elegant cottages of Albemarle Park sprung up on a steep slope to house affluent visitors. Today those homes are exclusive residences, but visitors still flock to the region, now known for its "green" consciousness as well as its blend of mountain culture, wild splendor and Southern hospitality. The grand inns maintain their original elegance, surrounded by the requisite spas and golf courses. The Southern elite who have long made Asheville their escape destination are today joined by those enticed by the hiking, rafting and festivals amid the wide rivers and horizon-spanning colors of the mountainsides.
TO BE SEEN
• Downtown. The arts and crafts galleries and green-themed cafes reflect earthy roots, but all are welcome, regardless of politics. The restored neo-Gothic Grove Arcade has the most alluring shopping, while Wall Street features Southern-style eateries.
• Biltmore Estate. Locals buy season passes to this, the largest private residence in the country. The 250-room "house" is the main lure, but the gardens, outdoor activities and seasonal events provide enough fodder for multiple days. And the 1890s English-style Biltmore Village, at the entrance to the estate grounds, is only half the tourist trap that one would imagine.
• Blue Ridge Highway. Only Mother Nature could create an attraction so captivating. Millions cruise 100 miles of scenic highway; some stop to hike the trails. Outdoor outfitters fill in with rafting, fly-fishing and mountain biking.
FOR THE VIP
• Be your own cottage industry. Get the Cottage at Biltmore Estate to yourself, with a personal butler and chef. You'll also be close to private Land Rover adventure driving lessons or, more sedately, custom-created carriage rides through some of the 125,000 acres.
• Play peak-a-boo. Avoid traffic jams on the Blue Ridge Highway by taking to the sky with a private jet tour over the mountain range from the local airport.
• Go green. At Hickory Nut Gap Farm, fourth-generation farmers offer personalized gourmet dining incorporating the finest local organic produce at the Old Sherrill Inn -- a pristine white mansion on the property.
OVERRATED
Urban Trail. This walking tour passes by bronze statues of supposed significance. The closest to intriguing is a pair of Thomas Wolfe's really big shoes, but if that excites, you were probably heading to his boyhood home anyway.
UNDERRATED
Autumn's span. Due to the ideal mountain climate and range of tree species, fall foliage -- a vivid spectacle around Asheville that conquers the imagination -- lasts longer than almost anywhere else in the country, from September to November.
DON'T MISS
Grove Park Inn. Whether it is dinner overlooking the valley for sunset, treatment at the stone-walled, waterfall-filled spa, a round of golf with the mountains as backdrop or a suite on the private Club Floor, take in some part of this Mission-style resort, opened in 1913.
WHEN TO GO
June-October. The season starts with rhododendron blooms and finishes with the golden shades of fall.
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