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The Draw
• Classic English countryside. Roads meander through quintessential small towns and among hillsides of grazing sheep, wooded river valleys, and cottages built of golden Cotswold stone.
• The baths in Bath. The steam that rises from the green-blue water of the Roman “spa” constructed thousands of years ago now flows through the new (Thermae Spa) and improved (The Bath Spa Hotel).
• The perfect constitutional. English law says that anyone can walk anywhere, even on private property. Traverse the Cotswold Way (97 miles from Chipping Camden to Bath) or do a more organized walk.
The Scene
Thousands of years and countless wars have not spoiled the gardens, castles and inns that abound in these sleepy towns and villages. And that which could not be preserved completely has been restored or replicated in more alluring forms. The elaborate churches and elegant estates of 15th-century wool merchants live on as hotels like Stratton House and Cardynham House, making for a ridiculously quintessential croquet-and-tea experience. Indeed, London’s edge hasn’t found its way out here yet: damask and antiques still fill the area’s luxury hotels like Royal Crescent and Chewton Glen. But the décor doesn’t necessarily translate into a stuffy attitude: expect welcoming locals to encourage you to sit for a pint and a yarn. Then stretch your legs with a walk through the countryside, by yourself or with the National Trust (which can also arrange tours of places like Blenheim Palace, Winston Churchill’s former home). Wind down with a soak and spa visit in the aptly named town of Bath before retiring to your castle on the green.
To Be Seen
• Bath. The Roman-era mineral springs are worth a visit, but modern spas that use the hot springs for pampering offer more of the expected luxuries. Check into the Royal Crescent and stroll along the trapped-in-time streets to the Bath Circus, where townhouses shine yellow as the sun rises and sets.
• Buckland. Stop for a cup of tea and a round of golf in the vibrant town of Broadway, but don’t dally: the less-touristy village of Buckland is the perfect place to escape busy roads and museums. A 13th-century hotel, Buckland Manor, offers croquet and tennis on its pastoral property.
• Chipping Camden. Encourage the landlords at the edge of this deep valley in pristinely preserved stone cottage inns and pubs to tell stories of their ancestors who welcomed visitors for centuries before them. On the way out of town, stop at a classic Edwardian garden, Hidcote Manor.
• Moreton-in-Marsh. Buy fresh produce at the 800-year-old Tuesday market on High Street—the area’s known for its organic farming
For The VIP
• Put on airs. Tour the Cotswolds in a small aircraft from Kimble Airfield—the pilot will fly you over the most picturesque towns, like Cheltenhem and Cirencester. Arrange to take the controls yourself after a lesson from the pilot.
• Horse around. Watch some of the world’s top polo players at the oldest polo club in the U.K., the 3,000-acre Cirencester Park Polo Club. Spring for entry into the members’ clubhouse to rub shoulders with royals as you enjoy lunch and tea. And if you’re feeling adventurous, suit up for a private polo lesson.
• Have a gas. Rent a classic Morgan 4/4 sports car for a leisurely three-day journey on a specially designed route that winds through the Cotswold’s towns and villages. Along the “Romantic Road,” spend your nights at the most chic properties, like Hotel on the Park in Cheltenhem.
Overrated
Bourton-on-the-Water. This quaint village has shallow streams and docks on the water. Unfortunately, the museums are fairly generic, and its uber-typical flavor means it’s overrun with buses and day-trippers.
Underrated
Tetbury. Though it has very few traditional museums, this tiny town exudes old-world charm with narrow rows of antique shops and pubs. And just a few miles away is the 600-acre Westonbirt Arboretum, as well as one of the most highly regarded hotels in Britain—Calcot Manor.
Don’t Miss
Berkeley Castle. Get a taste of the royal lifestyle and a flavor of British history. The Berkeley family constructed this gorgeous abode in 1153, and descendants still live among the echoes of barons discussing the Magna Carta and the pomp of playful court jesters. Today, you can tour the rooms and wander the 6,000 acres of gardens and streams.
When To Visit
Early to mid fall. Battling the crowds in the warm summer months is unnecessary. The quarried limestone still glows at dawn and dusk in autumn, but now the British school holiday is over and the towns are just as they once were—bucolic and undisturbed.
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