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THE DRAW
• A city devoted to the finer things in life, from all things cultural, aesthetic and gourmet to the unexpected discoveries of an afternoon stroll
• A trend of top-notch chefs going bistro style, so indulging in world-class cuisine at every meal doesn't have to break the bank
• New galleries devoted to becoming hot spots for contemporary art, not just repositories for great works of the canon
THE SCENE
Paris has long been the first stop on the cultivated traveler's grand tour, the place where the world comes to learn sophistication and style. Local pride has kept the city surprisingly free of generic superstores, and the city can still transport the visitor to an alternate universe of artisan shops and timeless French cafes. While the Left Bank hot spots of the past haven't entirely lost their charm, savvy travelers know to seek out the livelier, lesser-known corners where the Picassos of today drink, draw and dream. A plethora of continually revitalizing neighborhoods — from the hopping nightlife of Bastille to the artsy Canal St. Martin to the diverse, up-and-coming Menilmontant — provide room for the visitor to find his very own moveable feast.
TO BE SEEN
• St. Germain des Pres. Now one of the most expensive neighborhoods in France, this district is still home to a lively cafe scene that includes former Sartre haunt Cafe de Flore, and Les Deux Magots, where Hemingway was a regular, along with countless bookstores and boutiques.
• Ile de la Cité, Ile St-Louis and Beaubourg. While tourists swarm Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle, many overlook the rest of the surrounding area's charms: the elegant, 17th-century mansions and courtyards, prime antiques shops and well-known flower market.
• Marais. This historic district, occupying most of the third and fourth arrondissements, is chock full of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century mansions, secret gardens and a vibrant contemporary art and fashion scene. It’s also the center of Parisian gay life, and is still the home of
• Montparnasse. Former home to the "Lost Generation," Montparnasse still feels refreshingly untouristy, appearing much as it did in the 1920s — though don't expect the café life here to come cheap.
FOR THE VIP
• Rent a yacht and cruise the Seine. Cliché or no, this is one of the most leisurely and romantic ways to view the city, day or night.
• Dinner at L'Arpege. While there's something absurd about choosing the best restaurant in Paris, triple-star L'Arpege is at the top of many a gourmand's list. Reserve well in advance to sample the genius of chef Alain Passard, though you really can't go wrong at any of the other much-touted temples of gastronomy, like Taillevent, Alain Ducasse or Pierre Gagnaire.
• Follow in the steps of countless Rothschilds with a trip to the poshest dealers in town, Galerie J. Kugel, where museum-worthy antiques are laid out over the mansion's four floors.
OVERRATED
The Latin Quarter. While there's still some diversion to be found here, this area is a ghost of its former self — packed with tourists and overpriced, substandard restaurants.
UNDERRATED
First Arrondissement. This used to be one of the sleepier parts of town, but now those in the know come here to shop at smart new boutiques like Colette on the Rue St. Honoré, or the Marc Jacobs shop at the Palais Royal. Hidden parks. Gardens like the Tuileries and Jardin du Luxembourg steal all the thunder, touristically speaking, but it would be a shame to miss some of the more obscure, but resolutely Parisian, green spaces in spring and summer. The Parc Monceau is near the Arc de Triomphe and features gorgeous floral plantings and a faux Greek temple. On the southern rim of the city, the Parc Montsouris offers lush green lawns and a charming restaurant next to a manmade lagoon.
DON’T MISS
Le Palais de Tokyo. Yes, there are too many museums in Paris to choose from, but it shouldn't be hard to make time for this relative newcomer, the center of the city's contemporary art scene. A happening vibe penetrates the hip, stripped-down interior as visitors wander through the interactive exhibits and mingle with mavens of the avant-garde.
WHEN TO GO
May through June and September through October are ideal. July can sometimes be unpleasantly hot, and Parisians tend to go elsewhere during August. Winter brings cold temperatures and thinner crowds but the cultural scene never slows down.
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