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The Draw
• Iconic Italy, with world-famous landmarks representing thousands of years of history • Antipasti, pizza and (of course) gelato, all served amid the bustle of this modern, workaday city • Artistic masterpieces inside and outside the walls of Vatican CityThe Scene
Rome is the kind of city that inspires songs and sayings. But even if you don’t believe it was built in a day and aren’t throwing coins in the fountain, the city remains Italy’s core for an inspiring exploration of a bygone empire and a close-up look at the country’s modern soul. Archaeological and artistic treasures pepper the seven hills, while grand luxury and chic restaurants can be found in between. Modern Rome is not without its downsides: The traffic is nightmarish, and scandals have left residents feeling down about their government. But head out to a tiny palazzo at night, and all that seems to be washed under a rug of high energy, homemade pasta and mythological characters that still have a hold on the Italian imagination.
To Be Seen
• Historic District. No matter how many times you walk through the Colosseum and Roman Forum, the cracks in its historic facades never lose their appeal. Apart from the tourist sites, this area’s winding back alleys make for a charming stroll through the Renaissance, and its many hotels and restaurants in the Campo de Fiori and Piazza Navona are worthy stops.
• Piazza del Popolo. Showing that Milan isn’t the only fashionable Italian city, this area is home to the venerable Hotel Hassler (at the top of the Spanish Steps), along with the city’s high-end boutiques and restaurants, on the Via Condotti.
• Vatican City. The nation-within-a-city, home to some of the world’s most priceless works of art, is worth exploring for those of any faith, and Catholic holidays provide a fascinating -- if crowded -- look at religious traditions. Stick to the daytime hours; the area quiets down after vespers.
• Trastevere. Gentrification happens, even in ancient Rome. This once-gritty area has succumbed to the modern forces of rejuvenation and is now home to cool shops, clubs and restaurants. It’s also where you’ll find the Botanical Gardens.
• Villa Borghese. Rome’s 148-acre park harbors meandering paths and scattered villas, including the Galleria Borghese, a compact collection of Berninis and Caravaggios.
For The VIP
• After-hours Vatican tours. The concierge at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton can set up private tours to the Sistine Chapel and other Vatican treasures after the public has cleared out. One big caveat: The earlier you book, the better -- the hotel recommends six months advance notice.
• Meet the Pope. Meet this head of church and state, who holds weekly audiences. Just book as early as possible through Vatican City Tours, which can fill out the necessary papers and file them in person, the only way to guarantee you’ll receive your papal audience.
• Get outta town in style. Rent a car the Italians made famous -- a Ferrari Spider or Lamborghini Gallardo -- and cruise the Roman countryside, exploring ruins in towns like Ostia Antica, with an immense amphitheater, baths and a forum, along with a beach on the Med.
Overrated
Via Veneto. Everyone knows the street that Sinatra made famous. That’s the problem. And while luxury hotels still line the boulevard, it’s unfortunately slipped into the overpriced and overtouristed category.
Underrated
Parioli. Just south of the Villa Borghese is this gorgeous area where in-the-know travelers come to shun the tourist herds. Yes, it’s mostly residential, but you’ll find phenomenal restaurants, hotels and clubs here as well.
Don’t Miss
A gelato at the top of the Spanish Steps -- or anywhere -- is one of Rome’s great delights. Good reviews have gone to the gelato shop Giolitti, near the Parliament House, which serves up flavors like blackberry, fig and champagne.
When To Go
Summers can become uncomfortably hot, and many places shut down in winter. Miss the crowds and take advantage of more mild temperatures in spring and fall.
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