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The Draw
• The romance of an island city laced together by 400 bridges that span over 150 canals
• Art and architecture of extraordinary pedigree and beauty
• Grand, historic hotels that make you feel like a doge, or Italian duke
The Scene
It is historical fact that the Venetian Republic became part of Italy in 1866, but in truth, it never really has. Venetians are extremely proud, independent and insular, retaining their identity as Venetians, not Italians. They are justifiably proud of their beautiful city and only vaguely tolerant of the armies of tourists who clog the narrow streets and canals. Preservationists have long warned that all this traffic -- be it by foot or gondola or water taxi -- imperils the city's delicate balance. But the flood of visitors won't stop anytime soon, considering Venice's prime tourist offerings: world-famous hotels such as Cipriani and the Gritti Palace, restaurants such as Harry's Bar, birthplace of carpaccio and Bellinis, the dramatic Gothic palaces lining the canals and so much art that it seems that any church you wander into contains at least one Tintoretto. But once you get away from the main central square, Piazza San Marco, and its tributaries, and the main streets of Dorsoduro, life goes on as it has for centuries -- residents gossip in small squares, buy their vegetables from market barges parked on canals and savor a quiet life amid a maze of bridges.
To Be Seen
• San Marco. Packed equally by tourists and pigeons, the Piazza San Marco, one of the most famous sights in the world, is still among the most beautiful squares in Europe. It's surrounded by the Grand Canal, the Basilica San Marco -- a Byzantine masterpiece filled with 4,000 square yards of golden mosaics, the Campanile bell tower and the vast ornate 15th-century Doge's Palace, which was the former center of power in the Republic. During the evening in warm weather, outdoor cafes on the Piazza have dueling musicians.
• Dorsoduro. Across the Grand Canal from San Marco, this district is quieter, more residential and focused on the arts; in the past, many artists and writers lived here. Today, it is home to two celebrated art collections. There's the Peggy Guggenheim Collection of 20th-century modern art and the Gallerie dell'Accademia, which houses a Who's Who of Venetian artists, including Tiepolo, Tintoretto and Carpaccio. Also worth seeing is the Squero di San Trovaso, one of the last gondola workshops in Venice (it's visible from Rio San Trovaso), and the Zattere, a cafe-filled thoroughfare facing the island of Giudecca.
• San Polo and Santa Croce. The centerpiece of this area, and the geographical center of the city itself, is the world-famous Rialto Bridge. It is so popular that there are tourist stalls on every step. Still, the view of the Grand Canal from the bridge remains one of the best in the city. On the side streets you'll find great little bars serving cichetti, Venice's version of tapas, and artisans creating high-quality masks. The Rialto markets, which have sold fish and vegetables daily for centuries, are a window into Venetian society and best viewed early in the morning.
For The VIP
• Having the Basilica San Marco all to yourself. The London- and Palermo-based company Lanza & Baucina (www.lanzabaucina.com), which is headed by real-life princes and counts, can arrange a private visit when the crowds aren't there.
• Live like Venetian aristocracy. Rent a palazzo furnished with antiques of the city, with views overlooking the Grand Canal. (www.lanzabaucina.com)
• Secure your own boat and driver. Since Venice is a city that lives on water, arrange to have your own antique wooden motorboat and driver, so you can cruise the canals anytime you desire. (www.lanzabaucina.com)
Overrated
The glass ateliers in Murano. While there are still a few real artisans creating one-of-a-kind pieces, too many wannabes have set up commercial factories that turn out ordinary work for hordes of tourists.
Gondola rides in high season. During summer especially, gondola rides on the Grand Canal are bumper-to-bumper and foolishly expensive. Out of season (October through May), with a carefully selected gondolier on smaller canals, it's an utterly enjoyable experience.
Underrated
The restaurant scene. Identifiable by beckoning greeters positioned at the door, the overpriced tourist traps near San Marco give Venetian restaurants a bad name. But the food can be very special if you go to more out-of-the-way restaurants, such as the Michelin-starred Da Fiore, which serves fine seafood-inspired Venetian cuisine with pride.
Don't Miss
A performance at La Fenice, the beloved opera house that burned to the ground in 1996 and was lovingly rebuilt. It reopened to great fanfare in 2003.
Strolling the Zattere on a Sunday afternoon with a gelato from Gelateria Nico.
At least once, going to Carnevale in February, or Vogalonga, during which hundreds of boats row the 20 miles from Piazza San Marco to the island of Burano and back.
When To Go
Unless you're going to the Festa del Redentore (another impressive parade of boats celebrating Venice's recovery from the plague of 1576 that takes place the third week of July), stay away from the city from mid-July to the end of August when it's unbearably hot, smelly and filled with tourists and mosquitoes. The spring and fall are beautiful, with pleasant temperatures, blue skies and smaller crowds (although beware the high-water flooding that can occur around November). Winter can be drippy and chilly, but the fog that drapes Venice makes it appear even more magical.
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