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The Draw
• St. Thomas: world-class shopping, go-go nightlife and the Ritz-Carlton
• St. John: a pristine protected forest and the legendary Caneel Bay resort
• St. Croix: no crowds, and David Kendrick's renowned island cuisine
The Scene
This trio of islands is the place to sate yourself on sugar-sand beaches, swaying palms and turquoise waters. Purchased from the Dutch after World War I, the floating parcels of land come in two flavors: loud and quiet. Two million cruise ship passengers a year pass through the Virgin Islands' capital, Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas, and the city is home to dozens of boisterous restaurants and nightclubs. It's a 20-minute ferry ride to St. John, a pastoral, secluded alternative, thanks to early preservation efforts from the Rockefeller family. And St. Croix is even more remote, but boasts Kendrick's, one of the best restaurants in the Caribbean. Chartering a boat isn't mandatory, unlike in the British Virgin Islands, but it is highly recommended.
To Be Seen
• Virgin Islands National Park (St. John). Covering almost two thirds of St. John, the park is sprinkled with quiet bays and colonial ruins. Finish the day at Caneel Bay, Laurence Rockefeller's famous ecoresort.
• Buck Island Reef National Monument (St. Croix). This magnificent marine garden offers dozens of shallow-water snorkeling "trails." The reefs skirting the island are nesting grounds for hawksbill sea turtles.
• Blackbeard's Castle (St. Thomas). Truth be told, this 17th-century fortification probably didn't house the legendary pirate (otherwise known as Edward Teach), but there's a great view from the top and a luxury inn nearby.
For The VIP
• Play the Mahogany Run. On St. Thomas, you'll find 18 of the most beautiful holes in the Caribbean, including the "Devil's Triangle" -- three notorious cliffside heartbreakers.
• Charter a Yacht. Grab a gourmet picnic basket, turn on the plasma TV and kick back in your hammock as you set sail. You'll find several charters at the American Yacht Harbor Marina in Red Hook.
• Poolside Drinks at the Ritz-Carlton. The cocktail menu at Iguana's includes all manner of fortified frozen-fruit beverages. The Ritz is still the finest place to stay on St. Thomas.
Overrated
Trunk Bay. Yes, it's consistently ranked one of the top 10 beaches in the world, but during the day the cruise ships turn Trunk Bay into Coney Island. Try Gibney Beach or Hawksnest.
Underrated
Market Square. Further down Main Street in Charlotte Amalie, you'll find a charming open-air market that's a perfect antidote to the garish Havensight Mall.
Don't Miss
Sunset from Drake's Seat. Sir Francis Drake watched over his fleet from this St. Thomas promontory. Take in the view at dusk to start a romantic evening.
When To Go
High season lasts from December through March. While the summer months have fewer crowds, several hotels and restaurants are shuttered in the fall.
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