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HOTELS DINING ATTRACTIONS NIGHTLIFE SHOPPING

© Meghan Lamb

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The Draw

• The verdant cloud forests of Monteverde, brimming with monkeys and quetzals.

• Pristine beaches, especially on the less-trafficked Caribbean coast.

• A growing number of luxury hotels, along with (surprise!) some amazing cuisine.

The Scene

It certainly looks good on paper: an embarrassment of natural riches, a stable government and tourism network, relatively inexpensive prices and a population that appears to genuinely enjoy the company of its American neighbors. A visit to Costa Rica will confirm the most optimistic of suspicions. The birthplace of ecotourism continues to draw thousands of gringos seeking a dash of rain forest, ocean and volcanic adventure. And while the launch of the Four Seasons on the Papagayo Peninsula opened the entire northwestern corner to tourism, it's not the only place to find luxury. Some ecolodges are secluded and surprisingly decadent, while new properties of the air-conditioned variety continue to open.

To Be Seen

• Arenal Volcano and Tabacon Hot Springs. After a guided walk through the rain forest, relax with a cold beer in a natural hot bath. On clear nights you might catch some spectacular lava displays.

• The Caribbean Coast. The beaches on the eastern coast have calmer waters and fewer tourists than their Pacific counterparts. Watch sea turtles laying their eggs in Tortuguero, or relax in the lazy beach town of Cahuita.

• The Osa Peninsula. Home to jaguars, tapirs and macaws, this protected reserve in the southwest corner of the country also features some of its best ecolodges, including the Aguila de Osa Inn.

For The VIP

• Creole Cooking Class at the Inn at Coyote Mountain. This secluded estancia in the hills of San Ramon is famous for its customized culinary experiences. After a shopping jaunt to the local farmer's market, guests help prepare a Latin-Creole meal under the guidance of a trio of expert chefs.

• Cigars at the White House. The Casa Blanca, an intimate estate in the hills overlooking San Jose, features private helicopter service and a fully stocked cigar bar. And this White House isn't subject to any trade embargos.

• Chauffeur for the Week. Unless you're happily ensconced in a pleasure palace, a week in Costa Rica usually entails visiting a handful of forest and beach locations. A dedicated driver makes all the difference. Dream Tours of San Jose offers customized car and driver packages.

Overrated

La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This nature complex boasts hummingbirds, butterflies and orchids, but it's often overrun with cruise-ship crowds. You're better off enjoying the local flora and fauna in their native habitat in Monteverde or La Fortuna.

Underrated

San Jose. This isn't the most welcoming of cities, but if you have an evening to kill before your plane flight, sit down to dinner in the atrium of the Don Carlos, a restored presidential mansion in the historic Barrio Amon district.

Don't Miss

Canopy Tours. Several national parks offer the opportunity to stroll along the top of the trees on a series of suspension bridges and platforms. And in many parks, such as Selvatura Park in Monteverde, the more adventurous can fly through the jungle on zip lines.

When To Go

The dry season lasts from November to April. Visits throughout the rest of the year will feature spectacular tropical downfalls.



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