 |
The Draw
• Mayan ruins
• White sand Caribbean beaches and exclusive resorts
• The beautiful colonial cities of Mérida, Valladolid and Izamal, and their upscale haciendas-turned-luxury inns
The Scene
Like it or not, Mexico's Caribbean coast, now called the Riviera Maya, is rapidly being developed. Skip the crowds in Cancún and the massive all-inclusives and opt instead to stay at one of the area's new upscale ecoresorts or authentic boutique properties. The "new Yucatán" is being defined by these more accessible and responsible hotels. While the island of Cozumel is overrun by cruise-ship traffic, smaller islands, such as Isla Mujeres, deliver a more local experience. Mérida, the inland state capital, was once one of the wealthiest cities in the world, thanks to the surrounding sisal plantations, whose owners built grand Belle Époque mansions in town. These former haciendas are rapidly being converted into luxury properties.
To Be Seen
• The ruins. The great Mayan cities of Chichén Itzá and Uzmal, so completely different from each other in architecture and ambience, are unforgettable. Tulum, on a coastal cliff, was once considered grander than Seville by the first Spaniard to see it.
• The colonial cities. Mérida has narrow streets, many pocket squares and outstanding architecture. Izamal has a striking monastery that was among the first to be built from dismantled Mayan temples. Vallodolid was yet another rich colonial city.
• The barrier reef. After Australia's Great Barrier Reef, this reef is the world's largest. However, it's in terrible danger from overdevelopment of the surrounding areas. Still, there is much to see, and the drift diving is excellent.
For The VIP
• One if by land, two if by sea. Paraíso de la Bonita has three yachts, offering guests an opportunity to combine stays at the resort with a couple of days of sailing on a private three-bedroom, 38-feet yacht with full crew and a butler. (www.paraisodelabonita.com)
• Venture to hidden places. Haciendas in the Yucatán, such as Xcanatun or Petac, can arrange expert guides and private visits to Mayan ruins and cenotes, underground river caverns below the Yucatán Peninsula's limestone surface.
• Ultimate spa vacations. Unwind in one of Maroma Resort's new beachfront Sian Nah suites, which have their own plunge pools and private spa rooms with fitness equipment.
Overrated
Cancún has some wonderful resorts, like the Ritz-Carlton, but on the whole its overdevelopment is off-putting, and its storm-vulnerable beaches are puny compared with those to the south.
Underrated
Sian Ka'an Biosphere. Not many people find their way into this 1.3 million-acre UNESCO World Heritage Site, which includes wetlands, a barrier reef and 23 small Mayan architectural sites, where artifacts have been found dating back 2,300 years. The spectacular fauna includes some 300 kinds of birds. Kayaking and fly-fishing are permitted. (www.siankaantours.org)
Don't Miss
Cobá. Archaeologists have barely uncovered a third of this massive Mayan city. One of life's great experiences is climbing Cobá's pyramid -- the tallest on the Yucatán. The reward for such an arduous feat is a view for miles across the flat Yucatecan landscape, punctuated here and there by the stone peaks of pyramids from other ruined Mayan cities rising from the sea of trees.
When To Go
As with all tropical destinations, the ideal time to visit is midwinter. The Yucatán Peninsula can be insufferably hot in midsummer, and unless you're willing to risk bad weather, hurricane season, which lasts from June to November, should be avoided.
MEXICO DELUXE GUIDE »
Page 1 of 1
