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The Draw
• The most booming city in the world's most booming nation
• Colonial-era architecture mixed with the ultra-modern
• Technological marvels and a hip culture that's becoming hipper with every millions of dollars flowing in
The Scene
Reams of cash and an eye for flash: It's the 1930s all over again in Shanghai (save for the opium dens). The grand colonial buildings still stand on the Bund, and quaint homes lining the French Concession haven't been razed, but in Pudong, über-modern monoliths stand as a showy example of how the city quickly reversed its fortunes in the 1990s. Now the superstars of architecture, fashion and cuisine—like Jean-Georges and Giorgio Armani—have come for their slice of the Chinese fortune. The result is a frenetic culture straight out of an Alvin Toffler book: Visitors can ride the world's fastest train, walk through the world's longest underwater pedestrian tunnel and stay at the world's tallest hotel.
To Be Seen
• The Bund. Thankfully, the communists left the colonial buildings on Asia's best-known street intact. Walk the Art Deco Grand Promenade, and don't pass up a meal at M on the Bund.
• Pudong. Just farmland before 1990, this area across from the Bund today boasts a Jetsons-like mishmash of modern architecture. Check it out over a drink at Cloud 9, the 87th-floor bar of the Grand Hyatt, the world's highest hotel.
• French Concession. The home of French colonials until 1949, this tree-lined residential area mixes old Art Deco touches with some of the newest and most hip ones. Drop by Xin Tiandi; this modern development features some of the city's best restaurants and a chance to see Shanghainese at their capitalist best.
For The VIP
• Travel back in time. Have cocktails at the private club YongFoo Elite. The building was the 1920s residence of the British consul general, and the interior still evokes another era. Ask your concierge for the secret to getting past the doorman.
• Go green. As the Shanghainese make money, golf fever is catching. Arrange for a round at Tianma Country Club, in the only mountain region around town. It's a private course, but if reserved well in advance, it'll reward nonmembers with plum tee times.
• Cruise the Huangpu River in high style. Take in soaring views of both the classical structures on the Bund and the modern skyline of Pudong aboard the Portman Ritz-Carlton's new luxury river boat, the Sheng Rong Guo Ji.
Overrated
Nánjing Lù: This pedestrian street's mix of old-time silk shops and modern boutiques is an interesting experience, but masses of people toting Starbucks cups make it frustratingly crowded. Instead, go where the savvy locals go: Huáihai Lù.
Underrated
Dongtai Lu Antiques Market. This frozen-in-time area is full of dealers hawking porcelain and jade. Yes, bargaining is de rigueur, and yes, fakes abound; hire an antiques expert to bring along and advise.
Don't Miss
Watching tai chi. Masses of Shanghainese hit the parks every morning before work to practice these graceful movements, making for a choreographed show.
When To Go
Winters are chilly and summers are oppressive. Spring and fall are best, though spring tends to be rainy.
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