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The Draw
• Unvarnished mountains, dripping rain forests, endless beaches and pumping volcanoes, all isolated by the pure Pacific
• The most foreign-feeling state in the U.S., where diverse ethnic groups have created a unique culture while cohabiting in peace for decades
• The perfect mix of American convenience, urbane city life and rugged outdoor adventure -- both out of and in the water
The Scene
Perhaps The Brady Bunch and Don Ho pounded the final nail in the coffin of Hawaii's image 30 years ago. Back in the pre-jet era, movie stars and other elite gracefully sailed into Honolulu on Matson ocean liners, but by the '70s, the 50th state was the very definition of mass tourism. It still is. Cheap packages dump off planeloads of tourists daily -- but it's still easy to carve out your own luxurious paradise here. Vertical green mountains jut out of the empty ocean like a primordial painting. Hundreds of waterfalls cascade through virgin fern forests, and lava flows rush over jagged rock directly into the Pacific, spewing towering steam plumes. The multiethnic islanders themselves cannot be swayed, remaining steadfast to their tradition of "living aloha" with perpetual smiles and plenty of time to "talk story."
To Be Seen
• Waikiki Beach, Oahu. You've seen it in a million postcards, but this flawless crescent of sand framed by twinkling high-rises is one of the world's perfect spots for a romantic nighttime amble.
• Na Pali Coast, Kauai. Sheer canyon walls dive thousands of feet directly into the thrashing ocean. Why else would Hollywood chose to film everything from Raiders of the Lost Ark to Jurassic Park on Kauai's northern shore?
• North Shore of Oahu. During winter, diehard surf pros attempt to conquer the raging walls of water that pound into the coastline here, making for the ultimate spectator sport.
• Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The Big Island is home to the world's most active volcanic vents, and this huge, Mars-like national park is home to live lava viewing.
• Northwest Shore of Molokai. This rarely seen corner of the state is mostly inaccessible, save for small plane flights that whisk you along the hundreds of plunging waterfalls and valleys thousands of feet deep, landing on Kalaupapa Peninsula, where a (now safe) leper colony welcomes visitors.
• Road to Hana, Maui. More than 600 twisty bends in this highway along Maui's northern coast pass through some of the lushest, waterfall-ladened scenery in the state.
For The VIP
• Niihau. This far-flung isle holds just 160 or so residents, who speak Hawaiian as a first language, and it's famous as the "Forbidden Island" since it's officially off-limits to outsiders. Little known is the fact that island-owned Niihau Helicopters runs private, customized hunting safaris and beachcombing tours to certain parts of Niihau, departing from Kauai.
• Shangri-La. Tobacco heiress Doris Duke spent the last years of her life in this remarkable Diamond Head mansion and filled it with one of the most outstanding private collections of Islamic art in the world -- more than 3,500 rare and priceless objects. It's only recently been opened to small private groups that can take a privileged tour of her chambers.
• Lanai. No wonder billionaires choose to vacation on this elite, clandestine island (Bill Gates even held his $1 million wedding here). It's home to the exclusive English manor-style Lodge at Koele, hidden by pine trees and lined with two of the top golf courses in Hawaii.
Overrated
Molokini Crater, Maui. The remnants of this submerged crater may look appealing from afar, but the countless snorkel cruises that crowd in elbow-to-elbow while heaving tourists into the water murder the atmosphere.
Underrated
The Island of Molokai. This completely rural island proudly boasts the fact that it doesn't have any traffic lights, and that no building is taller than a palm tree. Molokai is a glimpse into the Hawaii of yesteryear, where every family is related to one another, horses nearly outnumber cars, and beaches are devoid of tourists.
Don't Miss
Downtown Honolulu. Currently experiencing a renaissance with new art galleries and trendy eateries, downtown Honolulu offers the grand Victorian-era Iolani Palace, where Hawaii's monarchs reigned, a Chinatown with facades that have hardly changed in 70 years and brick doorways where elegant ladies weave strands of fresh-flower leis.
When To Go
Hawaii has a year-round tourist season and consistently pleasant temperatures, so base your timing on avoiding the crowds during family holidays (meaning most of summer, Christmastime and spring breaks).
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