Antigua
Guatemala


The Experience

If you've ever had that fantasy about spending the night in a museum, here's your chance: This luxury hotel doubles as an archaeological museum in the heart of Guatemala's most historic city. Located on the eastern edge of Antigua, the sprawling compound started life as a 16th-century Dominican church and convent that was destroyed by an earthquake, then reinvented as a 1980s hotel. Today, its rough-hewn walls, cobblestone hallways and heavy wood-beam ceilings proudly speak to the history here. And this history is why you stay -- expansive rooms and stellar service are terms that haven't yet been invented here.

The Rooms

Standard rooms are large enough for your average 16th-century nun, but cramped for modern-day travelers. Still, they manage to cram a lot into a small space, including a king bed, minibar and fireplace (welcome on cool highland nights) and a terrace or balcony (welcome on hot afternoons). In keeping with the historic venue, the decor has the look of Spanish colonial antique, with low lighting and earthy Indian fabrics set against whitewashed walls just authentic enough to avoid being cheesy. Suites, on the other hand, can be quite spectacular, with a large living/dining room, original religious artworks and a terrace with private Jacuzzi.

The Service

Mother superior would have thrown a fit -- the staff, while friendly, can be infuriatingly slow. Leave extra time for checkout and don't expect room service to arrive anytime soon. And given the building's extreme age (500-odd years), things don't always work properly; think of the cool history when your shower goes cold.

The Highlights

History continues in the public areas, with Maya relics and Spanish colonial objects on display. Or have the front desk arrange helicopter tours of the city and nearby Mayan cities and sites. You can also explore the area with a walking tour or horseback ride with the hotel's boutique owner, American author Elizabeth Bell. And the resort isn't completely trapped in the past: The restaurant has a romantic open-air setting and a reputation for fine Guatemalan food, while the pool area is equally dreamy, especially after dark when a cool blue glow reflects off the nearby Spanish arches.

-- Joe Yogerst

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