Langkawi
Malaysia


The Experience

There are a handful of five-star resorts on the island of Langkawi -- the up-and-coming destination off the west coast of Malaysia -- but for its one-of-a-kind location and the best service around, the Datai wins hands down. Hidden away in virgin rain forest, the resort's main focus is the natural world; the walk to the beach, five minutes away, is along tree-lined paths surrounded by birds and monkeys -- an unspoiled stretch of property that leads to a white-sand crescent bay on the crystal waters of the Andaman Sea.

The Rooms

With large bathrooms and sprawling main quarters with private terraces, the spare but beautiful bedrooms come with low beds in white linens, wood floors and huge mirrors. Suites -- especially those with private pools -- up the luxury quotient, while enormous villas have features like private gardens, along with non-jungle conveniences like flat-screen TVs and Bose sound systems. The modern world is never far for anyone, with high-speed Internet connections in every room. If you don't care for wildlife, it's best to stay in the central building, as you may wander across some harmless but potentially startling nocturnal creatures sharing your path after hours.

The Service

The Datai scores extremely high in visitor surveys, and much of that is thanks to the service. Langkawi has modeled itself on Bali (and in fact many of the hotel's employees are Balinese), and the Datai's staff handily succeeds in bringing over the high levels of professionalism and easy attentiveness from its neighbor.

The Highlights

There are three restaurants on site, but the most original is the excellent Thai restaurant Pavilion, built on tree trunks. Massages are the standout at the spa, though nature may intrude: Don't be surprised if a troupe of monkeys turns up to watch the fun. And don't miss the nature walks with Irshad, the resident naturalist; he points out macaques (brown-grayish monkeys), kingfishers, wild boar and varieties of trees with the elegance of a stage actor who studied with Darwin.

-- Ondine Cohane

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