Anacapri
Italy


The Experience

Ever since the Roman Emperors built their summer palaces high on this rocky outcrop above the emerald waters of the Bay of Naples, Capri has been a haven for the rich and powerful. Today's celebrities (Harrison Ford, Julia Roberts, Naomi Campbell), however, escape to Anacapri, the quieter side of the island, taking refuge in the exclusive oasis that is the Capri Palace. Several generations of hoteliers have welcomed guests to this spot for more than 100 years, but the Capri Palace is a new building, conceived in classic Mediterranean style. The taste of cosmopolitan wealth and privilege is immediately tangible; in the lobby the acres of blond marble, white linen and gold leaf stand out against a framework of columns, soaring arches and vaulted ceilings. This is the hub of the hotel, where beautiful people in shades linger and surreptitiously check each other out. If glamour is what you’re after, this is the place to be.

The Rooms

Pay for an upgrade to one of the 10 suites -- it will make all the difference in your appreciation of the hotel. While standard bedrooms and bathrooms are a little on the small side, with less-than-perfect sound insulation (you can hear your neighbors in the next-door room), the suites, especially the Art Suites, are magnificent. Starting at 400 square feet and ranging to an astonishing 1,620 square feet, they are as seductively designed as the public spaces, using a sophisticated palette of whites and neutrals. Best of all, they come with generous garden terraces, looking out over the great arc of sea and sky.

The Service

Service is charming and polite, if sometimes scattered. With so many celebrities coming through, it might appear that they (and those who have booked the suites) get precedence over other guests. However, the concierge desk is extremely helpful and the spa therapists professional and efficient -- though expect some communication barriers as not all speak English.

The Highlights

This is Capri Palace Hotel and Spa, after all, so make a visit to the extensive health center, in a separate wing of the hotel. World famous for its leg clinic (Liz Hurley is a fan), where experts work specifically on limbs to deal with circulation problems, the spa offers a whole range of treatments, all underpinned by serious scientific research. You can come here for a bit of peace and a quiet dip in the spa pool, although most guests enjoy the theater of the main pool, with its catwalk-style terracing, framed by cypress and oleanders. Snag one of the tented pavilions for its shade and star-spotting potential, and don't think of going anywhere else for lunch -- the buffet of local specialties is an agreeable alternative to the more formal dining in Michelin-starred L' Olivo.

-- Catherine Fairweather

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