Ravello
Italy


The Experience

There's no question that the hotel's most remarkable feature must be the breathtaking views of the Gulf of Salerno and terraced Amalfi Coast. But this 12th-century royal palace, set atop a 1,000-foot cliff in the medieval town of Ravello, more than holds its own with sumptuous historic luxury. The building itself has had a checkered past, opening as a hotel after World War II then closing in the 1970s, only to reopen again in 1997 after a $20-million refurbishment. But today it boasts stunning interiors with vaulted ceilings, arched windows, balconies and a soothing cream palette that won't distract from why you came here in the first place: the view.

The Rooms

Rooms feature gleaming white tile floors and just the right quota of elaborate antique furnishings -- an inlaid writing desk here, a marble-topped commode there -- to add distinction without heaviness. But it's really all about the views -- so snag a room on the sea side, since the view in the other direction of mountains and gardens is pretty enough but not really the point on the Amalfi Coast. It's safe to reserve a suite, since all of them boast sea views -- especially fine are the Belvedere, Infinito and Horizonte ones, all extra-spacious and with their own terraces.

The Service

The friendly but proper staff is supplied at a generous ratio of two employees per room. This is the sort of place where cocktails are delivered poolside on a silver tray by a young man in a white jacket, and helicopters are routinely arranged to spare guests the twisty-turny drive along the coastline. In the restaurant, even handbags get their own special mini-ottomans.

The Highlights

The peach stucco palazzo is typical of the region, with its series of terraces clinging to the side of the cliff: one for the 20-meter heated swimming pool, one for a bar and lounge, one for a sundeck, another for outdoor dining at the casual restaurant Terrazza Belvedere. There's even one for a little fitness center -- and if you need incentive to mount a stationary bike, this view should do the trick. Linking all these levels are stairways that wind past gardens with palm trees, bougainvillea and classical statuary of gods and goddesses. The main restaurant, Rossellinis, is a two-Michelin-starred haven featuring chef Guiseppe (Pino) Lavarra, who is as famous for his way with local fish as the restaurant itself is for its views

-- Kathleen Beckett

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