Amalfi
Italy


The Experience

Set on the coastal road just ten minutes from the center of Amalfi, the Hotel Santa Caterina's location and sensibility feel happily removed from the tourist fray of the charming but often overcrowded resort town. Endowed with sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea and perfumed by lemons and oranges from its terraced citrus groves, the hotel exudes an airy, classic chic and the dignity that comes of being family-run since it opened a century ago. Livery-wearing attendants have welcomed the likes of Meryl Streep and Brad Pitt in the bougainvillea-filled circular driveway.

The Rooms

One of the biggest downsides here is the size of the standard rooms, which range between 193 and 236 square feet. Still, light pours in through large windows and doors onto white and floral handmade floor tiles, and balconies are big enough for breakfast tables overlooking the sea. You'll have to crane your neck to get a complete ocean view, though, so upgrade to one of the deluxe rooms to get a full-on look at the azure. Bonus: You'll also get a huge terrace and powerful Jacuzzi. And if you're booking a suite, snag the Casa dell'Arancio or the Follia Amalfitana--they're in the citrus and flower gardens, where the scent of fresh fruit mixes in with the clean sea air.

The Service

Service is gracious and formal, but not stiff. Affable young managing director Crescenzo Gargano, the third generation to run Santa Caterina, is regularly on the premises, chatting with guests and making suggestions for sight seeing trips to Pompeii and Capri. The hotel operates a bus to run guests into the center of Amalfi--a better idea than trying to find parking.

The Highlights

The Amalfi coast may be beautiful, but its sheer rock faces don't lend themselves to waterside lounging. That's why Santa Caterina's private beach--even though it's made of cement--is a huge draw. Sit in one of the chaise lounges with the hotel practically hanging over you, jump in the sea or attached salt water swimming pool to cool off and take advantage of the small spa. Up on the cliffside, wander the quiet paths of citrus gardens before sitting down in the lapis and marble floored main dining room for dinner. Old fashioned white-jacketed waiters expertly debone fish tableside as you take in the day's final look at the shimmering sea.

-- Jackie Cooperman

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