Anguilla, Leeward Islands
British West Indies


The Experience

The white-on-white Moroccan fantasy of Cap Juluca curves along a sparkling white spit of sand that forms a gentle bay, dissolving like sugar into turquoise water. Why Moroccan? At this point, 18 years since the resort was conceived, who cares? It works, and has been widely imitated across Anguilla, where hoteliers have let loose their Mediterranean fantasies with only the rare nod toward traditional Caribbean architecture. Today, the resort's 12 two-story room-buildings and six villas are marked by arches and domes that are playfully romantic. And at night, from each balcony or terrace, lights from the other villas can be seen illuminating the nearly mile-long bay.

The Rooms

The white-on-white theme continues in the rooms, which vary from 700 square feet, including terraces, at entry level to 2,500-square-feet suites, and are white-tiled and walled, with contrasting dark wood shuttered doors. Beds are covered in white duvets with gem-colored accent pillows, and the minimalist-style furnishings are mostly built in. You may find that all of this white tile just feels cold, however. It's worth it to upgrade to a second-story junior suite for one of the glass-walled bathrooms that open onto completely private sunning terraces bordered in planters, which all have balconies facing the sea. Pool villas, of course, have their own pools and decks, and because they're a distance from the main building, they come with golf carts to shorten the journey to the restaurants.

The Service

On the whole, service is excellent. Most of the staff are genial and attentive, although mysteriously slow (how can assembling a glass of ice-tea be so time-consuming?). And while, on occasion, you run into a worker who's bored to death and looks right through you, most are jovial and eager to please. The concierges make an effort to steer guests to the best local restaurants and tours, although Cap Juluca offers just about any excursion you could want.

The Highlights

Everyone complains about the resort's swimming pool, which is tucked away beside the kitchen of George's restaurant, with no view to speak of. But why sit by a pool when there's all that sugary sand and warm sea out there? When you've had your fill of the surf, visit the well-run spa, which adds to the whimsy of Moorish architecture in the British West Indies by offering Javanese, Balinese, Polynesian and Indian treatments, along with yoga, tai chi and Pilates classes. Then sit down for a Caribbean-tinged meal at George's restaurant, dining on jerked pork loin or barbecue swordfish while gazing out over the white-sand beach.

-- Laurel Delp

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