Hotel Tugu

Indonesia
Asia

The Experience

Nestled between serene rice paddies, the revered Batu Bolong temple and a spectacular stretch of black sand beach, the Hotel Tugu is more than just one of Bali's finest boutique spa resorts; it's also a thriving museum of local art and culture, the only one of its kind in the country. Walk the grounds, and you'll find a reconstructed 300-year-old Javanese temple, six spa treatment areas, a conference room that doubles as a memorial to Balinese royalty, a magnificent collection of antique gamelan instruments...and, eventually, your room, whose decor will be inspired by Balinese legend. You may soon begin repeating a few tales from here yourself.

The Rooms

The suites are huge, built into 10 thatched villas patterned on traditional Balinese houses, featuring spectacular pavilion roofs, rich hardwood furnishings and more. (Don't jump if you open the walk-in shower and find a fertility god in there, already apparently enjoying herself.) Upper floor suites include massage area, sunken bath and ocean views (although with steep spiral staircases; be careful); ground floor units come with plunge pool and semi-outdoor baths. Tradition yields to the 21st century in the right places (A/C, satellite TV, DVD, mini-bars and safe deposit boxes throughout; wifi in the main pavilion). The two top-end suites are tributes to European painters Adrian Jean Le Mayeur de Merpres and Walter Spies, who made Indonesia their home and principal inspiration; the 2,700-square-foot red Le Mayeur suite, frequently used for honeymoons, is surrounded by a lotus pond and includes its own plunge pool, sunset veranda and private dining pavilion.

The Service

All the gentle grace of Bali and more, commencing with your airport pickup and your complimentary shoulder and/or foot massage on arrival. Room service is 24 hours; meals can be taken virtually anywhere you like on the grounds. Dining options are unexpectedly diverse, reflecting the rich local history--ranging from traditional Balinese and Javanese dishes to Chinese, Dutch colonial and modern Western cuisine. Classes are offered in local dance, cooking and flower arrangement. The Waroeng Djamoe spa is a particular joy; 23 types of massage treatments range from a 30-minute deep-tissue workup to an eight-hour full-on mindblower for couples. The therapists' hands sometimes feel like butterflies fluttering in time to gentle Balinese music.

The Highlights

Canggu Beach has pleasant, reliable surf, excellent for weekenders and beginners alike, so you'll surely spend some time by the sea, either hanging ten or watching. Still, the hotel is so gorgeous that you'll soon be drawn back to exploring its corners. Built and decorated by Indonesian art and antiques collector Anhar Setjadibrata, virtually every item on the grounds is beautifully crafted--from the vast pavilion lobby (built like a Balinese village meeting hall) and its 16-foot statue of the eagle Garuda, right down to the door knobs, lighting fixtures, and handrails. The word tugu, after all, means "monument"--and for Balinese history and art, this hotel could not be better named.

 

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