Spot the bright red tin roof and a building that looks like an overgrown ski lodge and you'll have found the Post Hotel. Indeed, it did used to be just a winter hotel (originally called the Lake Louise Ski Lodge), but since 1957 has been providing year-round accommodations. The distinctive color scheme of the hotel -- set among the lush green of Banff National Park -- is a pretty good indication that it's a world away from the corporate take of its immediate rivals. And the Post Hotel's current Swiss owners have imported their own brand of alpine charm.
The RoomsIf you can, go for a room with a real log fireplace, which are available even in the less-expensive rooms. But whichever of the 15 room categories you choose, you'll find space (the smallest rooms are 295 square feet), unpretentious yet warm and cozy decor with chunky pine furniture and an abundance of hot tub-style bathtubs in the stylish bathrooms. For the best views, go for the "preferred side" -- it's the quieter choice away from the railway -- or else you could find yourself overlooking the parking lot. And for a real treat, try one of the four individual intimate cabins set in the grounds. Though not necessarily more spacious, they are a perfect retreat.
The ServiceService is friendly and stylish, as you might well expect from a Relais & Chateaux property. The fact that the waiter offers you a bag of muffins to munch on during the journey home just about says it all.
The HighlightsThere are endless nearby opportunities for outdoor activities, of course, but no matter whether you're skiing, golfing, fishing or dog mushing, you'll look forward to returning to the lodge for dinner. The Swiss owners have imported one of their own, Hans Sauter, as chef, and the cozy, candlelit dining room -- full of Canadian pine and with a fieldstone fireplace -- is as romantic as it gets. And with more than 1,500 wines on the list, this is an oenophile's dream ticket.
-- Alistair Scott