Budapest
Hungary


The Experience

Palace, indeed: This Art Nouveau jewel is located so centrally that you could imagine the famous Chain Bridge over the Danube was installed just to lead up to its door. Originally built in 1904, the building was fully refurbished and reopened as a Four Seasons in 2003, bringing life back to a decrepit building caked with soot. Today, the facade is a gleaming white, and the lobby is adorned with decorative tiling, gorgeous stained glass and wrought-iron gates bearing images of peacocks. By preserving and emphasizing historical details (Art Nouveau corridor carpets, for instance), the hotel retained its essential Hungarian character without making the place feel like a museum piece.

The Rooms

The sense of history continues into the bedrooms, which have Biedermeier-style furnishings and a careful use of the same shades of plum and sage that you'll find in the public spaces. At 335 square feet, the Superior rooms and Danube Superiors are the same size, but there's no competition: To be in this building and not have a river-and-bridge view would be a false economy. If money is no object, take the Tower Suite, which sits right under one of the domes on the building's roof.

The Service

Budapest isn't a city blessed with an abundance of great customer service, but the Four Seasons training has worked wonders: Doormen smile like you're returning friends, desk staff are quick and efficient and the restaurant staff match up to the caliber of the food at the Italian restaurant Páva.

The Highlights

The triangular top floor is where contemporary style takes over and where you'll find the workout room (along with great views of the city through small circular windows) and lap pool. Indulge in Hungarian pastries in the bustling Gresham Kávéház. Then settle in for one of the city's best Italian dinners -- asparagus risotto with black truffles and five-spice-crusted tuna loin -- with one of the city's best views, staring out at the lights over the Danube.

-- Stephen Whitlock

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