Buenos Aires
Argentina


The Experience

This contemporary-meets-classical European hotel, ideally set in the "Luxury Corridor" of La Recoleta, celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2007, but its elegant interiors and old-world service suggest it's been around a lot longer. Set directly opposite the boutiques of Patio Bullrich and a short walk from the Alvear Palace Hotel and the Four Seasons, it manages to combine the refined elegance of the former with the contemporary chic of the latter, the only drawback being the lack of decent views from its lower-floor rooms. That said, it surprises with touches like a boutique wine shop in the lobby and a secret garden out back that you would never know existed from the entrance.

The Rooms

The hotel is 18 stories tall, but with only 170 rooms, there's generally plenty of space and ease of movement. Standards aren't huge -- they start at a snug 388 square feet -- so upgrade to a Junior Suite (560 square feet); the giant top-floor Imperial Suite, at 3,445 square feet, is quite possibly the largest hotel room in Buenos Aires. Decor is pretty uniform, with surprisingly contemporary beige and cream tones offset by classical pieces of dark-wood English furniture. You can get Rio de la Plata views from the 11th floor up, while the suites face that graceful, secret garden. Each comes with a separate living area decked out with couch, minibar and television, and en suite Carrara marble bathrooms.

The Service

All the basics are done with flair and minimal fuss, from the 24-hour room service staff who'll set up your breakfast on a table facing the garden to the front desk staff who will recommend lesser-known local sights such as Recoleta's chic antique district nearby.

The Highlights

The elegant, high-ceiling lobby features several distinct spaces, such as the Lobby Bar, set under a gorgeous domed glass atrium and serving a popular high tea. The postwork crowds sample cocktails at wood-paneled English pub Cheers, where the interiors recall old Buenos Aires despite the cheap-sounding name. Residents, meanwhile, can browse and buy last-minute gifts in the hotel's art gallery, antique shop and boutique wine store -- the latter selling superb local vintages. If you can't decide which wine to buy, sample them first over dinner in haute Argentine cuisine restaurant Agraz, where delicacies include a slow-roasted wild boar in honey glaze and several classic cuts of beef steak. Then go for a stroll through the lawns of the secret garden, or relax with a cigar on the garden terrace.

-- Douglas Rogers

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