Buenos Aires
Argentina


The Experience

Comprising a 12-story main tower and an elegant 1920s Belle Epoque–era mansion with seven lavish period suites, the Four Seasons became an instant hit with local elites and visiting celebrities -- among them Madonna and the Stones -- when it opened in 2001, eclipsing the more famous 1931-built Alvear Palace down the road. Handily located in upscale La Recoleta, just minutes' walk from the boutique Patio Bullrich shopping center and Recoleta Cemetery, where Evita is buried, a contemporary refurbishment in 2005 jazzed up the interiors, but sophisticated service and a certain old-world charm remain.

The Rooms

At 430 square feet, with walk-in closets and marble bathrooms, even standard rooms seem as spacious as suites. Design is contemporary, and that's not necessarily a good thing -- you really have no indication you're in South America. Still, the dark wood furniture offset by soft-colored upholsteries is classic in a Four Seasons kind of way, with wet bars, water-jet tubs and surround-sound stereos adding a chic touch. Deluxe Premier Rooms on the top three floors bump your space up to 650 square feet and offer a view of the mansion. Speaking of which, its suites are like museum pieces: all high ceilings, original French antiques and much velvet upholstery done in plush yellow, blue and gold tones.

The Service

It's all in the detail. From dashing young doormen to the always-on-hand management, everyone greets you by name, with a smile. The front desk go beyond the call of duty: Don't be surprised to find your room filled with balloons and red roses if it's your anniversary, or, if you're under the weather (too much red wine or red meat on the town), that you get a surprise room service tray of herbal tea, toast -- and a teddy bear -- to cheer you up. They'll phone to check on your progress, too. Valets, meanwhile, play concierge, eager to tell you about their favorite parilla (steak house) or an upcoming soccer match.

The Highlights

While Buenos Aires restaurants are a must-try, don't miss a lunch of Patagonian oysters and Torrentos white wine at chef Matthias Zumstein's Le Mistral, the hotel's Mediterranean restaurant, its glass walls looking out onto the lobby. If you overdo the food and drink, you can work it off in the heated outdoor swimming pool -- the only one in Recoleta -- set in the landscaped gardens in front of the Mansion, or recover in the first-floor spa and fitness club, where you get a rare touch of South American influence: Body and facial oils used are based on ancient Incan remedies.

-- Douglas Rogers

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