Cape Town
South Africa


The Experience

The "pink lady" or "the old Nellie," as it is often called by locals, remains a standout among Cape Town's social elite as well as one of the most historic hotels in Africa. A more formal alternative to the Cape Grace, this pink stucco edifice opened at the turn of the 20th century at the base of Table Mountain -- yet still far enough away to get a full-on view. Today, the Nellie retains many of its original charms (like high tea); and while a recent renovation removed its old-fashioned flower scheme (which was decidedly losing its appeal) in favor of a more modern standard, the grande dame still feels distinctly English.

The Rooms

The hotel has six wings separated from the main building, each with a unique style. All rooms are individually furnished; those in the Main Hotel are particularly spacious and oozing with Old World charm (some have Baccarat crystal light fittings from the 1930s as well as English antiques that were placed in the hotel when it first opened in 1899). They start at a healthy 450 square feet and come with air conditioning, opening windows, and noticeably large bathrooms. Upgrade to the Luxury Room category for a view of the mountain, but to suites only if you need the extra space.

The Service

The Mount Nelson was created to copy the finest hotels in London, and it has never forgotten that. Everyone from the concierge to the general manager maintains a European sensibility; expect to be called sir or madame, with a lot of door-holding and chair offerings. This can, at times, be excessive, especially if you don't like being doted on.

The Highlights

While always a bastion of tradition, the grande dame may be entering a new era with the recent addition of Planet, a sleek Art Deco bar at the back of the hotel with a cocktail menu as long as a giraffe's neck, an excellent wine and champagne list, and a raw bar as well as desserts served until the wee hours of the morning. But English tradition lives on: You can schedule a guided walk with the head gardener through the hotel's seven acres of gorgeous manicured gardens, where you'll take in the sights and scents of a colorful mix of African flora.

-- Kristan Schiller

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