Chicago
Illinois


The Experience

Anglophiles seeking rarefied pomp and circumstance will find it here with the Four Seasons' grand public spaces, huge flower arrangements and Italian-marble lobby fireplace. But this is no English garden. Set on top of the 900 North Michigan building, the hotel stretches to the 46th floor and cuts off on the 30th to 46th, meaning that mall shoppers scurry about right downstairs. Nevertheless, the hotel feels like its own little universe, especially with sweeping city and lakeside views not visible from inside the lower-level boutiques.

The Rooms

The European country-style decor -- printed wallpaper, heavy curtains, brocade pillows and plump sofas -- creates an aesthetic that feels grand, though perhaps a bit overblown. But no one should have complaints about the spectacular views, especially from rooms ending with 25 (on the corner), which look onto both the lake and the city. Spacious bathrooms are equipped with oversize robes, user-friendly makeup mirrors and Bulgari toiletries.

The Service

Judith Mahler, chief concierge, is excellent at arranging reservations at Chicago's best restaurants (especially important now that the city's culinary star is rising) and setting up personalized architecture tours. Staff is excellent: friendly and quick but not obsequious.

The Highlights

A grand and regal atmosphere continues around the property: The 8,000-square-feet spa is one of Chicago's best -- massages here are particularly good -- and the ornate indoor pool and whirlpool are surrounded by Roman columns and covered by a skylight. Outside of that cocoon, though, you'll have no doubt about how high up you are: When the Windy City lives up to its name, you'll hear the howl around the building (earplugs are provided for such occasions). Views of the city are also evident in most of the public spaces: from the tables of the hotel's restaurants to fitness machines that seem to hang right over the Magnificent Mile.

-- Ondine Cohane

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