Guanacaste
Costa Rica


The Experience

Costa Rica's rugged Guanacaste peninsula got a dose of official ultra-luxury with the debut of the Four Seasons in 2004, the swanky hotel group's first Central American property. Set on a bluff 300 feet above the Pacific and between two blue-water bays, the resort is a meeting of the forest and the sea, where no building rises taller than the treetops, allowing local species like sauco, pagoda and jicaro trees to dominate the resort grounds. That the resort is somewhat remote -- up to two flights from the U.S. and at least a 40-minute drive -- is part of its appeal, but also its downside: Once you're here, there's nowhere else to go for dining or nightlife, two of this property's weaknesses.

The Rooms

There are 143 rooms, all finished in local hardwoods and stone, with airy patios that nearly touch the tropical treetops just beyond. Each is the same size and all are spread over two identical wings, meaning the only premium is the quality of the prime Pacific views from the higher floors. The real drama of local architect Ronald Zurcher's design, however, comes through in the suites -- 20 in total, set far above the main resort and designed like five-star tree houses, with open-air verandas, plunge pools and roofs clad in rich clay tiles. There are one-bedroom and Premier suites with bay-to-Pacific views, though the nearly 3,000-square-feet Presidential Suite trumps them all with three bedrooms, a private swimming pool and an outdoor shower.

The Service

Poolside, orange-scented, chilled towels and fresh fruit are hallmarks of Four Seasons service, executed surprisingly flawlessly from a staff comprised of nearly all locals. Often shy, yet always with a smile, they clearly take their positions seriously, whether soothing strained nerves on a bay sailing ride or explaining the local flora. There are also thoughtful touches throughout, like full-size complimentary washers and dryers on each floor.

The Highlights

A pair of beaches -- one along a calm bay, the other fronting the azure Pacific -- and two swimming pools offer relief from the heat (especially in spring), while the Rain Forest Spa with 10 massage and five treatment rooms delivers body therapies based on indigenous ingredients such as coffee and coconut. For kids, an "Eco University" teaches junior biologists about Costa Rica's conservation initiatives; golf buffs can test their skills on an 18-hole, Arnold Palmer-designed course; and tons of activities take place off-site, from horseback riding to scuba. Visit from December through February and you can witness leatherback sea turtles nesting along the nearby Guanacaste Coast. The hotel's restaurant quartet -- particularly the Italian de Mare and "continental" Papagayo -- are fine...but just fine. Better is a soak in the spa's outdoor hot tubs, which are perfectly placed at the resort's apex to face straight over the forest canopy and onto the azure Pacific below.

-- David Kaufman

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