
La Bastide de Marie
Route de Bonnieux, Quartier de la Verrerie
Ménerbes, France
Tel: +33-4-90-72-30-20
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8 rooms & 6 suites
This classic 18th-century manor stands beside a sentinel of cypress trees among 37 acres of low-lying vines; in summer, it basks in the purple haze and heady scent of the lavender fields that define the Luberon, this romantic corner of Provence. The laid-back atmosphere is immediately evident. There's no formal reception (though the resident bulldog might manage a thump of his tail as you enter), and oversize sofas, antique dressers and armoires sourced from local flea markets and filled with books and jam jars give a comfortable farmhouse feel. Such lack of pretension is in harmony with the unbuttoned, relaxed spirit of the place and the key to its unique charm.
Each bedroom is conceived around a color theme reflecting the flora of Provence. While only the suites can boast the luxury of space, they all have seductively quirky features. Some are tucked beneath the eaves; some are split-level, with canopied beds or with romantic freestanding claw-foot bathtubs taking pride of place. Yet elegant rusticity is the predominant theme in all, with lime-washed beams, honey-colored flagstone or terra-cotta floors and exposed stonework on exterior walls.
A refreshing antidote to the fussy service and starchy formality so often encountered in the French provinces, this is the kind of congenial hospitality that encourages a guest to put his feet up and treat the place like home. Even dogs are welcome.
The unfussy atmosphere is everywhere, from the garden with ivy-clad terraces for reading, sunbathing and dining to the conservatory-like kitchen, where guests are encouraged to wander and watch the chefs preparing dinner. And when you've sampled the wine from the estate's own winery; imbibed all the honey you can from the resident hives; unwound beside the hotel's split-level pools; been massaged with a local organic potion from the grotto-spa—then, and only then, is it time to explore the white chalk hills, gorges and scented plateau of the Luberon.