Beau-Rivage Hotel

Switzerland
Europe

The Experience

One of Europe's great mansion hotels, and one of Switzerland's treasures, the Beau-Rivage has been privately held and family-run since Jean-Jacques Mayer first opened the doors in 1865. On the lake, and just one bridge away from Geneva's best shopping along rue Du Mont Blanc, this is the best of old-fashioned Europe. The ubiquitous elegance of the décor can become overwhelming at times, but one must remember—that's why you're here. This is a grand hotel at its most purple.

The Rooms

Beg, borrow or steal to get a balcony—the view of Lake Geneva is the hotel's raison d'être. Smoking hasn't yet fallen out of favor with Europeans, so even your non-smoking room may smell suspiciously like the previous guest's bad habit; test the air before you unpack your bags. The Junior and Prestige Suites are more than comfortable at roughly 500 square feet, but they're dwarfed by the Historic Suite's expansive 1000 square feet. The bathrooms are modern, and surprisingly large; some have claw foot tubs. For extended stays, consider one of the three fully furnished apartments on the adjacent rue Alfred Vincent. The largest is the 1400-square-foot, split-level Wagner; it has three bedrooms, two baths, separate lounge and dining areas—and a terrace. Guests at the apartments, of course, have full use of the hotel's amenities.

The Service

"To serve is a privilege"—the Mayer family's motto is not a simple tagline. For 40 years, the same concierge has tended to blue bloods, royal bloods and captains of industry who come back for the letter-perfect service. You're soon spoiled by those little touches that should be de rigueur at all five-star hotels—fresh fruit upon arrival and replenished daily, unseen and unheard turndown service, and so on. If something is wrong, by all means discuss it with the staff; they will make amends with speed and grace, and without false apologies. That said, room service can be slow—and it's always pricey.

The Highlights

Though the Beau-Rivage's French restaurant, Le Chat Botté, is very well-respected--thanks to chef Dominique Gauthier's competence and creativity—it is a bit too expensive. And, in the wrong light, the room looks less like a classic European mansion, and more like an upscale cruise. There are better dining options in the area; ask the concierge for his recommendations. Do, however, take breakfast on the terrace, weather permitting.

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