
Hotel Alfonso XIII
San Fernando 2
Seville, Spain
Tel: +34-5-422-28-50
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147 rooms incl. 19 suites
One of Europe's grandest grand hotels, the Alfonso XIII was commissioned by the Spanish king for which it's named, and when it opened in 1928 was intended to put all others to shame. It did a good job. The imposing edifice includes towers and Renaissance arched windows, but it's the hotel's interior that's captivating, with its mudejar (Spanish-Moorish architecture) details. The colonnaded courtyard's inlaid marble floors, intricate tile designs and fountain are extraordinary. To stay here is to live the Andalusian fantasy you've come to view.
Decorated in baroque, Castilian and Moorish style, rooms continue the fantasy. Walls are covered in a combination of silk and linen fabric (though as luxurious as that sounds, the fabrics are also vulnerable to disheartening stains), and bathrooms feature inlaid marble floors, majolica tiling and double sinks. The 750-square-foot junior suites are actually one-bedrooms, and though they have antiques and marble mosaic floors, still come with amenities like cordless phones and butler service. And more changes are in the process, with the guest rooms' tired carpet being replaced by marble. Tip: Request a room overlooking the pool and gardens—these are the lightest.
Formally dressed waiters in the gorgeous restaurant have an almost clinical detachment, and you can't help but try to trick them into a laugh. The concierge may be excellent at guiding you to the sights and the best shopping, but they don't deal with problems with the kind of dispatch you'd expect from a five-star hotel. And when you complain, the smiles go stony.
The Restaurant San Fernando is decorated in tile work, columns and tapestries, with soft lighting glinting off snow-white tablecloths. Here the specialty is Andalusian cuisine, including gazpacho, meats simmered in sherry, spicy sausages and of course Spain's incomparable hams. Dine in the outdoor section that takes advantage of the courtyard, the perfect spot for one of those long, lazy Spanish lunches when everything's closed anyway.