
Hôtel de la Cité
Place August-Pierre Pont
Carcassonne, France
Tel: +33-4-68-71-98-71
VIEW WEBSITE
61 rooms incl. 21 suites
A fairy tale holiday made real—luxury lodging inside an authentic medieval citadel. Carcassonne was first fortified by the Romans, then held by the Visigoths and the Saracens, who fought Charlemagne's father from this very spot. The French made it a stronghold against the Spanish, so the fort only fell into disuse under Napoleon. With restoration beginning in 1853, Carcassonne is recognized as one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, and perched along its ramparts—in a palace once used to house visiting bishops, given a multi-million dollar makeover in 1998—you'll find the Hôtel de la Cité.
The furnishings, carpets and window dressings reflect the hotel's medieval history, but satellite TV and wifi will remind you which century you're actually in. The large bathrooms have marble flooring, heated towel racks and rain shower heads. Rooms 110 through 116 are a treasure, with outdoor patios that open to a garden overlooking a marvelous view. One caveat for guests with mobility issues: owing to the hotel's age, tricky medieval stairways are unavoidable.
The hotel boasts one of the region's top restaurants, La Barbacane, where, amid stained glass windows and tapestries, executive chef Jérôme Ryon presents haute cuisine with regional touches; for an authentic local dish, try the cassoulet with quail. There's also a spacious outdoor brasserie, and private candlelit dinners can even be arranged in the wine cellar. (The blanquette de Limoux, a homegrown white, may have inspired champagne.) Golf, tennis, horseback riding and a cruise on the historic Canal du Midi are also on offer.
Carcassonne's twisting alleys and romantic architecture are a visual treat to explore, but two of the city's most memorable views are best found from the hotel grounds. Rise early one morning, walk to the rightmost end of the hotel garden, and watch from the ramparts as the city below awakens. Better yet, exit left from the hotel shortly before sunset, then head steeply down the Rue de Four St. Nazaire toward a series of cobblestone switchbacks behind the hotel that serve as the city's back door. Turn around, and you'll find yourself looking up at a truly fanciful vision: the ancient stonework turning deep gold in the sunset, just as it has for many centuries. It's a sight you'll long carry.