Hotel Ritz Paris

France
Europe

The Experience

Built as the home for the Duc de Lauzun, this limestone palace has been an imposing presence in the heart of Paris for 300 years. César Ritz turned it into a hotel in 1898, and Mohamed Al Fayed bought it in 1979, investing millions to revive its former glory. The latest renovation—completed in 2007 and costing $164 million—further revamped the property while retaining the 18th-century-palace feel. The refreshment includes edgy splashes of decor, new technology and restaurant updates. Most important, though, a new team of easygoing 30-somethings—from the GM to bellhops—has been brought on board to make the place less intimidating. The fashionistas who stay here may have attitudes, but the staff won't.

The Rooms

Rooms are at once modern yet traditional French. The gilt, crystal chandeliers, moldings and lit closets (a Ritz invention) all stayed. Added were Bose sound systems, wifi and plasma TVs set in elaborate gold-leaf frames, like paintings. The hotel also features what it calls the world's most expensive hotel beds: special Sealy's with Italian silk satin sheets, seven pillows and gold-leaf headboards. Rooms aren't huge, starting at 325 square feet, but they're still a healthy size for Paris. Suites can easily triple that square-footage and come with unique touches like the Imperial Suite's baldaquin bed (based on Marie Antoinette's), a personal wine cellar and a cosmetics fridge.

The Service

Ruthless efficiency (luggage is promised in the rooms within six minutes of arrival) doesn't mean haughty attitude. The new GM's promise of a staff that's all smiles shows first with the doorman, who now offers a welcoming "bonjour" instead of a withering stare. There's even a new "glitch recovery system," meaning a little gift awaits you at checkout if, say, your room-service pasta arrives too al dente for your taste.

The Highlights

The stunning full-size indoor pool is still gorgeously outfitted with frescoes, mosaics and a painted ceiling. But the dress code at Sunday brunch in the César Ritz Salon says it all: Jackets are not allowed. The Bar Hemingway features a tapas menu, while the chefs at Espadon, the hotel's tony restaurant, serve France's only gourmet six-course vegetarian tasting menu, matched with wines. The teas are flown in fresh from Harrod's estate in India within 72 hours of being picked.

 

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