Les Trois Rois

Switzerland
Europe

The Experience

This stately 1844 structure, which has counted Picasso, Dickens and Stravinsky as guests, recently underwent a rigorous 20-month renovation. It reopened in 2006 with modern indulgences alongside glamorous belle époque notes, such as dazzling chandeliers and a soaring, three-floor lobby containing gold-topped columns and an illuminated ceiling, beneath which strut dignitaries and Europe’s crème de la crème. The Rhine-fronting hotel is sited in the old town, within walking distance of numerous museums and enough stores to merit a second (or third) credit card.

The Rooms

Neoclassic and art deco styles dominate the 101 rooms, with colorful wallpaper and fancifully upholstered furniture flanking antiques. The Rhine-facing rooms are dramatic (try a terraced junior suite), but street-side rooms are soundproofed and have air conditioners. If money is no object, the expansive Les Trois Rois suite possesses an open-air Jacuzzi with impeccable city views. Every room includes modern Bang & Olufsen flat screen TVs and a mini-bar stocked with free soft drinks; and a touch-screen computer controls the heated bathroom floor and towel rack.

The Service

The service, too, could stand a slight renovation. The attitude can be stiff and snooty, though the tuxedoed waiters operate impeccably and the housekeeping staff dole out sweet turndown touches including water pitchers and kiwi fruit. All-night room service is available.

The Highlights

A slower, more refined pace permeates the hotel. Afternoons in the smoke-free lobby feature tea service, which segue into an early-evening cocktail in Bar Les Trois Rois—the sunken leather couches encourage conversation. Afterward, dine in the classically French Cheval Blanc. Either sit in the hushed, candelabra-lit dining room or head to the romantic river-looking terrace to sup on Michelin-starred marvels including foam of artichokes with duck foie gras and truffle sauce. Working out, too, has never felt so sublime: Lovely Rhine views appease your eyes while you tone your muscles.

 

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