Reid's Palace

Portugal
Europe

The Experience

Set among 10 acres of lush tropical gardens on a cliff above the Atlantic, the 116-year-old Reid's Palace is where George Bernard Shaw learned to tango in 1924. And there's still an in-house instructor to get guests up to speed for Saturday night dinner dances in a turn-of-the-century salon beneath a cloud fresco. But, taken over by Orient-Express, the Edwardian dowager has ditched its starchy reputation with a $10 million-plus 2006 revamp that sacrificed none of its quirky Brideshead Revisited charm. Order a Buck's Fizz on the veranda and take it all in.

The Rooms

Reid's is what a legendary hotel should be--grand but never gauche--and the rooms are no exception. Once wrapped in heavy chintz, rooms and suites have been updated in pastel tones, lighter floral accents, hand-embroidered bedspreads and airy linen curtains; each opens onto a sea-facing balcony outfitted with wicker furnishings. Upgrade to a suite for sea views from private balconies, the most recherché of which (the Churchill and the George Bernard Shaw) are swathed in hand-painted Chinese wallpaper, raw silk curtains and elaborate marble bathrooms, and offset by spacious terraces with sweeping ocean views. Recent renovation or not, the hotel is old-fashioned, its various wings requiring assorted elevators and unusually located stairways to navigate--but that's all part of the charm. In the equally old Garden Wing, suites open directly onto the hotel's famous tropical paradise: lush acres of hibiscus, bougainvillea, mimosa, wisteria, rhododendron and exotic flora.

The Service

Comprised mainly of convivial Madeirans, most of the staff have been here for years--if not decades--and all are helpful, warm and gracious. Having served everyone from Gregory Peck to the Empress of Austria in a century-long parade of celebs, this is a place that understands the care and feeding of guests.

The Highlights

There's lots to do: Hit the links at one of two nearby golf courses, play tennis, learn to tango or speak Portuguese, book a wine tasting, check out the new Aqua-gym. Excursions include everything from deep-sea fishing to helicopter tours. Still, Madeira is a quiet island, one hardly famed for its nightlife. And this is a traditional place, so some old-fashioned customs remain--such as a dining room that offers just "red" or "white" by the glass. While jackets and ties are no longer compulsory, the crowd is still an older one. But that's changing. The arrival of a children's center, internet access, a state-of-the-art fitness center and a spa centered on La Prairie and Asian treatments are all welcome additions for younger travelers. And hey, Saturday night swing bands in Edwardian splendor can be great kitschy fun.

 

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