The Balmoral

Scotland
Europe

The Experience

An Edwardian grand hotel, The Balmoral nevertheless is infused with a modern flair by its Rocco Forte takeover and Olga Polizzi makeover in 1997. The brown sandstone exterior sits solidly on Edinburgh’s main drag, Princes Street, right above the Waverley Train Station, with the hotel’s landmark clock tower letting travelers know how much time they have to catch their train. Inside, the lobby’s marble floors reflect the hotel’s imposing nature, but just off the lobby, the Drawing Room’s up-to-date sofas and chairs show that the modern flair is never far behind.

The Rooms

That combination of history and design continues in the rooms. Polizzi, clearly inspired by the Highland tradition without being dictated by it, decorated the rooms (the smallest of which is 300 square feet) in light, heathery neutrals, set off by spring green (her signature color) and grayish-blues, and a random tartan plaid here and there. Rooms take advantage of their unique spaces, with slanted ceilings or bay windows. And since Edinburgh is a city of amazing views, they also take advantage of their position, looking out onto Arthur’s Seat, the Old Town and Edinburgh Castle, and the Firth of Forth on the other side of town. Still, the suites are where to get a real sense of history--many of the opulent ones have turrets, working fireplaces and (of course) the best views.

The Service

The rather grandly uniformed doormen make you feel like a Very Important Guest, while the speedily efficient staffers check you in either at the desk or in your room. Extra members seem to be standing at attention everywhere, just waiting to jump to your command, and the concierge’s desk is happy to accommodate just almost any fancy.

The Highlights

At the Balmoral spa, modern becomes New Age, as the estheticians have you smell several ESPA oils on the theory that your body will pick out what your treatment needs most--detoxifying, energizing or stress-relieving. Stress is also relieved as you pass under the crystal chandelier that sparkles against the red walls and mirrored Bollinger Bar, which serves exactly what you think it does. Have some bubbly before settling into the comfortable banquettes at Number One, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in town, helmed by the unfortunately named chef, Jeff Bland.

 

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