Villa La Massa

Italy
Europe

The Experience

Just outside the city and set on the lush green banks of the eddying Arno, this almond-colored Renaissance villa was built in the 16th century by one of Florence's most famous noble families as a sylvan escape from the heat of Tuscan summers. Over the years it has seen its share of more modern nobility, from Gregory Peck to Winston Churchill, and today the villa continues to call Firenze visitors to the countryside and offers a taste of this bygone life, amid almost 30 acres of exquisitely landscaped gardens. It serves up a rich and memorable dose of magnificent Old World elegance, while channeling the unique style of titled Italians: friendly and casual.

The Rooms

Reflecting their generous size (an average of 400 square feet) and individuality, the 37 rooms--each maintained and refreshed during a brief closing every winter--are located in three different buildings: the Villa Nobile, the original 16th-century villa; the Villina, a 19th-century villa that was created as guest quarters; and the Vecchio Frantoio, or old olive oil mill, which has been intelligently renovated to respect its original rustic charm. All rooms play the luxury card of traditional Tuscan craftsmanship, with sumptuous handwoven silks and linens in lush Florentine jewel-tone colors used for bedcovers, curtains and upholstery. Beautiful antique wardrobes, desks and side tables in every room display the Tuscan love of Baroque curves, fine cabinetry, imaginative finishes and wrought iron. The most sought-after rooms are those in the Villa Nobile with views of the Arno, and suites in the Frantoio, the most romantic part of the property, with private balconies and river views.

The Service

If there's a touch of old-fashioned formality to La Massa, a good-humored graciousness makes it an easy place to relax, especially since the staff are hawkeyed when it comes to detail. General manager Francesco Tozzi runs the hotel like a privileged house party, and the front-desk staff attends to every detail, from recommending a great off-the-beaten-track trattoria to arranging vineyard and villa visits.

The Highlights

Start the day in the vaulted celadon-painted dining room with eggs from the hotel's own henhouse. Take a dip in the pool, hop the shuttle into town, walk or jog the nearby trails or head off to the local stables. Then go for a stroll through the vast vegetable patch that supplies its restaurant, Il Verrocchio, and dine on the results. Linger over a late supper of risotto with shrimp and zucchini blossoms or bistecca alla fiorentina (a char-grilled T-bone served with white beans and tomatoes) on the terrace overlooking the Arno, a view so eternally Tuscan it's worthy of Giotto.

 

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