Taha'a
French Polynesia


The Experience

Imagine sunset from the balcony of an over-the-water bungalow, exotic mist-shrouded peaks in the distance, a crescent moon hanging above the sea and a vivid glimmer in the night sky -- Venus flashing her ultrabright smile -- and you'll have some idea of what makes this the most seductive hotel in the entire South Pacific. Chic, secluded and drop-dead gorgeous, the resort is set on a sandy, palm-shaded motu on the barrier reef around Taha'a, a large (and largely undiscovered) volcanic island directly east of Bora Bora. An earthy architecture blends traditional Tahitian elements with snippets of Gothic, African and Melanesian design -- thatched roofs, stone walls and sweeping teak staircases. Walkways meander through manicured sand to a nave-shaped wooden lobby (like a South Seas version of Chartres) and twin eateries suspended in the jungle canopy.

The Rooms

Polynesian woodwork motifs and rich European fabrics adorn the 48 over-water bungalows. All of them come outfitted with spacious balconies, boat-shaped "double" bathtubs, and glass-bottom tables for viewing the underwater life that thrives beneath the piers. Snorkel (or skinny-dip) off the back porch. Top of the line are the eight Bora Bora suites, where you can lie in bed and watch the sun sink over Bora Bora's jagged volcanic peaks. And scattered along the shore are a dozen beach villas with private gardens and plunge pools secreted behind volcanic-rock walls. They're not as romantic as the over-water units, but much more spacious (1,000 square feet plus) and better for families with small children.

The Service

Superefficient, especially when you consider the remoteness of the location, but cordial in a uniquely Polynesian sort of way. You want discreet -- they're invisible. You want the local scoop -- they're game for that too. Guests can request very personalized service: a customized snorkeling tour of the coral gardens or a homemade poisson cru lunch for two on a deserted beach. Don't be afraid to ask -- Le Taha'a is all about satisfying your desert island fantasies.

The Highlights

Style aside, the resort also delivers plenty of substance: the longest uninterrupted stretch of white sand in French Polynesia. Coral gardens that have never been decimated by anchors or picked over by shell collectors. A waterfront spa with everything from traditional Western beauty treatments to Tahitian massage. Overall, there's an overwhelming sense of solitude, compounded by the fact that it takes real effort to get here: a one-hour flight from Tahiti (or 15 minutes from Bora Bora) followed by a 35-minute boat trip across Taha'a lagoon. And the real don't-miss experience after that journey is suspended by tree trunks and wooden stilts: the gourmet Vanille and Ohiri restaurants, which flaunt some of the best food in French Polynesia. Up in the tree houses are dishes featuring locally grown vanilla, like mahi mahi in a passion fruit and vanilla sauce, and vanilla crème brûlée. Tarzan and Jane never had it so good.

-- Joe Yogerst

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