This once-rowdy home away from home for sailors now seems respectable -- even charming. The hotel is a two-story plantation-style structure with big verandas that overlook the streets of Lahaina and the harbor a short distance away. All rooms have been totally remodeled, with vintage bathrooms and new curtains and carpets. The quietest rooms face either the garden courtyard -- devoted to refined outdoor dining accompanied by live (but quiet) music -- or the square-block-size banyan tree next door. I recommend room no. 31, over the banyan court, with a view of the ocean and the harbor. If you want to watch all the Front Street action, book no. 49 or 36.