Kapalua, Maui
Hawaii


The Experience

When the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua was first being built at the beginning of the '90s, all of Maui rose up to protest the potential desecration of an ancient Hawaiian burial site. As a result, the entire resort was moved back considerably, leaving the sacred grounds intact on the bluff over the ocean, and ever since, Ritz-Carlton has made an effort to provide guests with as much knowledge of Hawaiian culture as they care to absorb. Yet it's hardly just a cultural hotel: The plantation-style U-shaped building is set in a former pineapple plantation that's now home to three championship golf courses, and from the moment guests pass the entry gates it's like having joined an exclusive country club.

The Rooms

Ritz-Carlton is planning major renovations any minute, although a start date has not yet been set. In the meantime, the rooms are looking a little sad, with outdated fabrics, bathrooms and elderly TVs. That said, they are completely comfortable and more than adequate, each with a balcony and all with pleasing views of either the rolling hills and Norfolk pines, the pool and garden or the ocean. Even some of the garden views provide a smidgeon of ocean. Entry-level rooms are 450 square feet (not counting the lanai), with double sinks and separate showers and tubs in the marble bathrooms, while suites (870-1,400 square feet) have goose-down pillow-top beds.

The Service

Service here is friendly and efficient, and if the staff detects even the faintest interest in Hawaiian culture, you're immediately embraced as a part of the family. The concierges are able to arrange anything that's available on Maui, from hiking trips to helicopter rides, and are happy to advise on where to dine and shop up-country.

The Highlights

Walk through the grounds past Norfolk pines and rolling, grassy slopes descending to the beach. Just beyond the resort, the West Maui Mountains rise into jagged peaks that are sometimes shrouded. From the bluff, rainbows can frequently be seen, along with passing whales and dolphins. Return for a swim in the three-tiered pool, then take the meandering path down to the beach, where there's a restaurant and staff to see to your needs (and there's a cart to take you back and forth if you don't care to walk). There's a spa with an extensive menu of treatments and six dining areas, including an oceanview sushi bar and the award-winning Asian-influenced fine-dining venue The Banyan Tree, which offers amazing fresh-caught Hawaiian fish.

-- Laurel Delp

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