Istanbul
Turkey


The Experience

Anyone who's ever felt as if they deserved to live in a palace will feel well-rewarded at the Ciragan Palace. As its name suggests, this waterfront property served as the home of Turkey's last sultan, and includes massive gardens and Bosporus-front promenades of monarchic proportions. Anchored squarely in the center on the city's European side, the hotel is close to both the business of Taksim, and the tourist delights of Dolmabahce palace and the old town of Sultanhamet. Best of all, the waterside setting means views of the city's villa-filled Asian side from every glance.

The Rooms

Although the hotel is named after a palace, a mere 12 suites are actually found in its original Palace wing, completed in 1871. And what suites they are -- recently renovated, they start at 3,500 square feet, expanding to 4,037 square feet for the enormous Sultan Suite, and include original, handwoven carpets, 19th-century-styled parquet floors and 42-inch plasma TVs. Set in the 25-year-old new wing, the rest of the rooms range in size and view; all boast a similar, though less luxe, version of the suite's mod-Ottoman decor. Skip rooms facing the back and park; the upgrade to a sea (or even partial) seaview room is the main reason to stay here.

The Service

Like the sultans' palaces of another age, Ciragan is grand in size as well as service. A team of more than 400 workers tends to the place -- and to guests ranging from George Bush to Jean Paul Gaultier. And while the Ciragan's scale renders true intimacy nearly impossible, the service is comprehensive and attentive, from the knowledgeable assistance in the business center to the towel boys in the traditional hammam.

The Highlights

Perhaps the only thing at the hotel that is not oversize, the gym is still well-stocked, with a spa offering numerous wraps, massages and scrubs. The hotel's restaurants, meanwhile, are truly endless -- with Turkish, Italian, French and Russian options. Time for only one? Then make it Tugra, where traditional Turkish cuisine fit for a pasha is served in pasha-worthy splendor. No matter where you eat later in the day, the breakfast buffet -- especially if taken on the waterfront terrace -- is a dreamy sensation for both the eyes and the palate, as is the sumptuous afternoon tea. Late at night, be sure to take a dip in the outdoor pool. Heated in winter and cooling in summer, it flows along the Bosporus and is one of the most scenic swims anywhere.

-- David Kaufman

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