Udaipur
India


The Experience

The regal Udaivilas, set on the bank of Lake Pichola, may look like an ancient Indian palace, but it's just a re-creation (albeit a spectacular one) -- the hotel dates to 2002. Still, this is hardly Disney; Indian artifacts are scattered throughout, and a hand-painted mural near the lobby, for example, was created to resemble the expertly painted walls of many of the early temples of Udaipur. The effect is rather formal, but the hotel isn't all about stuffy luxury: A wildlife sanctuary on the grounds, filled with deer and exotic birds, puts a focus on the outdoors while extending the fantasy of Udaivilas as an authentic royal residence.

The Rooms

That sense of quasi-authenticism carries into the rooms, where you'll find elegant Rajput-style decor with colorful Indian textiles and marble bathrooms. At just over 600 square feet, the standard rooms are large enough for you to toss pillows on the floors like a maharaja holding court. They also offer access to a private walled courtyard draped in bougainvillea vines right outside your French doors. Still, if Udaivilas is about feeling royal, there's no better way than to upgrade to a Superior Premiere Room. These may not get you much more room, but they do allow you access to a semiprivate moated pool right outside, where you can float around with a view of Lake Pichola (though you'll hear your neighbors doing the same thing). Suites bump up the space and luxury factor, adding infinity pools and tented dining pavilions.

The Service

As is true at all Oberoi properties, service here is phenomenal to the point of being almost psychic. Indian hospitality never seems false; the staff is attentive and friendly without being overbearing. Ask for a tour of the hotel's fascinating Indian art collection –- it's worth it.

The Highlights

Since you're about two miles from town, it's fortunate that the hotel's restaurants are generally winners. Dine in the outdoor courtyard, Chandni, with traditional Indian music and dance. Or sit down at the more formal Udaimahal, among its candlelit, linen-covered tables, and enjoy dishes like black cod marinated in white miso or tandoori raan (leg of lamb cooked in the tandoor oven and flavored with cloves and cinnamon). Surprisingly few spots in the hotel take advantage of Lake Pichola views, even though the hotel is located on its shores. But that doesn't mean there aren't views: The granite and marble medieval-style City Palace lies in the distance, making a spectacular backdrop for a picnic lunch on a private gondola.

-- Kristan Schiller

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