Thornybush Game Reserve
South Africa


The Experience

Royal, indeed. If the Queen of England went on safari here, this luxury compound wouldn't have to redecorate. Persian carpets, Asian antiques, bronze statues and other one-of-a-kind pieces, such as the carved-wood Hapsburg chairs at the entrance, provide the decor for this elite lodge located in a private 27,000-acre game reserve. (That means other Land Rovers won't intrude on your Big Five viewing.) Owner Liz Biden's exceptional taste is apparent in every detail of the lodge, from the silver and crystal employed at dinner to the artisan creations from all over Africa in the gift shop. But the elegance doesn't detract from the back-to-nature experience. When the lions roar, you hear them…even if it does rattle the crystal a bit.

The Rooms

Large, airy, air-conditioned, with their own private decks and plunge pools, the suites hark back to colonial times with four-poster beds, antique tables and chests and more Persian rugs, even outdoors on the deck, contrasted with bright South African paintings and a few Asian antiques. The Royal and Malewane suites, constructed in what was Liz and Phil Biden's house (at 2,368 square feet, the largest in Africa) before Liz decided to become a hotelier, are dedicated to privacy with their own butlers, massage therapists, chefs and game vehicles with trackers. Memorable dinners can be held on one's deck, with the occasional elephant for company.

The Service

Staff members know what you want before you do, and provide it effortlessly. Despite the grand trappings, they're also low-key and friendly -- there's no regal attitude here. And whether it's arranging a picnic in the bush, a hot air balloon ride over the reserve or a helicopter to transport you to Jo-burg, everything is accomplished quickly.

The Highlights

The Waters of Royal Malewane Bush Spa, added in 2005, provides guests with a 75-feet lap pool, open-air rooms with a view of the sky and treatments using local oils and minerals. After your game drives, sit down to Chef John Jackson's meals, which mix local ingredients, globe-trotting influences and the occasional barbecue, after which staff members and sometimes famous guests break into song. If the group scene isn't for you, indulge in private fantasies such as Moroccan dinners served in a candlelit tent on the lawn.

-- Laurie Werner

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